Tag: homemade

Pain au lait

I’ve been baking a lot of breads these days but suddenly I felt like eating a variety of other baked things such as brioche, until A. saw a picture of a pan bagnat in a magazine and asked me to make one for him. I didn’t see the picture, and instead of thinking of the classic pan bagnat from the south of France, that you can eat in Saint Tropez or in Nice, in a kind of ciabatta bread, a little dry, I thought about the soft and melty version in a pain au lait, went straight to the kitchen and started making dough for pain au lait. I used to use the recipe from Kayser bread book, but decided to change, and opted for a mix and match version. The whole thing ended up in delicious, soft and tasty perfect little breads. And that’s when A. told me that the pan bagnat he saw was not in a pain au lait… 🙁

No problem I said, how about egg and ham sandwiches instead???

And that’s how they turned out… and it was damned delicious. So here is the recipe of the pain au lait.

For the egg sandwich filling, I simply hard boiled 3eggs, chopped them with a knife, add a table spoon of olive oil, a table spoon of mustard, that’s it.

Pain au lait (makes 8)

  • 280g of flour
  • 3g of dry yeast
  • 70g of butter
  • 35g of sugar
  • 100g of milk
  • 5g of salt
  • 1 egg + 1 egg optional for cooking

In a bowl mix the flour, the sugar, the salt and the yeast, add the egg and the milk and knead. Add the butter and knead until smooth and not sticky, it may take a bit of time. Let rest under a cloth until it almost doubles. You can flip the dough once in the meantime. Rising time will depend on your room temperature, your yeast, and the original temperature of ingredients. For a faster rise, use ingredients at room temperature.

Once the dough has doubled almost, dust your working surface with flour and the ball of dough. Flatten it and then make a rough oblong shape. Cut pieces of 70g-90g each, shape roughly in sausage. Don’t work too much the dough. And set on a sheet of cooking paper. Leave for 1-2h. Pre-heat the oven to 175deg. If you want perfectly golden little breads, use an egg batter. I you don’t care about the color, just spare it.

Bake at 175deg 10min then at 170deg another 10min or until perfectly golden. That’s it!!!

Have a good week!!

A new veggie

There’s always something new to discover or to learn… that is true in any discipline, but even more in cooking!!! The quantity of potential ingredients is really enormous, and the variety depends so much on customs and climate that I am far from having explored a hundredth of what exists. Even in after 16 years in Japan, there are still some surprises. Products that are not necessarily Japanese but made their way a few decades or century ago. That’s the case of the yard-long bean or in Japanese jūrokusasage 十六ササゲ. Something I had never seen before, that attracted me at the farmers market, and so I tried it and it made its entry in the glossary. I really like how farmers manage to grow locally so many different vegetables in such a beautiful way! I wish I could one day…

As the name promised, it’s a double long long green bean like vegetable, but the flavor is more subtle and more grassy. As I wasn’t sure how to prepare it first, I decided to blanched them and serve with soya sauce, grilled thick fried tofu atsusge 厚揚げ and that was perfect and top with katsuobushi.

What is the last new vegetable that you tried?

Edamame soup

As you already know, I am a great fan of greens and even more in the form of beans: green beans, fava beans and of course the famous Japanese edamame. You have seen this year already my edamame ravioli, and many years ago edamame rice, but there is so much more to do with edamame!!!

I tested the gyoza version of the ravioli: pasta without egg and fried in a pan instead of boiled and that was scrumptious. But that’s not all!!

One thing that was on my to-do list with edamame was a soup, like that with fava beans or green beans, so I was more than happy when my IG friend Junkikat posted a recipe of edamame soup inspired from Korean soy beans and noodles: Kong-guksu. I am not familiar with Korean cuisine very much, but I was very much attracted by the simplicity of her recipe. I adapted further to my liking and pantry and ended with a delicious recipe that was extremely simple. In a sense it reminded me ramichelles, even though it has nothing much in common but the thin noodles that are so delicious in summer!!!

Edamame soup and noodles (2 servings)

  • 75g of dry somen or vermicelli
  • 1 handful of boiled and shelled edamame (about 3 handfuls of edamame in pods)
  • Water
  • Katsuobushi thin flakes (furikake style)

If your edamame are not boiled boil them, it’s ok to overcook them a bit. Remove the pods and skin. In a mortar, puree them. Add water little by little to obtain a very creamy paste. Once the creamy paste has been obtained, add further water to obtain a thick liquid. Boil the noodles and drain under cold water to cool them.

In a bowl serve half of the soup, add the noodles, top with katsuobushi flakes. Eat at room temperature or refrigerated.

Potato salad

For those that have been to Japan they know that potato salad ポテトサラダ is a quite important dish in Japanese cuisine. It is probably one of this japanized version of western food that is so popular it looks like genuine Japanese food!! You can find potato salad on the table at every party and it is so common that it can be found in combini as well. While the idea of a potatoes base salad with vegetables all creamy and mushy is very nice, just like the kabocha salad. But the problem with most potato salad is the abundance of mayonnaise that just makes it fatty and taste like mayonnaise, nothing else. I do like fresh homemade mayonnaise once in a while but I am not such a fan to bother making some in particular if I have no plan for the egg white. But I love homemade potato salad, so I just replace the mayonnaise with a simple soft boiled egg with olive oil. That’s it! It’s faster, more digest and none the less tasty! Because fast is an important condition for preparing lunch when we are back from the ocean.

So here is my potato salad recipe with all ingredients from Isumi except the olive oil from Tuscany and the salt and pepper.

Potato salad (2 servings)

  • 3 mid size potatoes that becomes mushy when boiled
  • 1 Japanese cucumber
  • 5 Japanese sausages
  • 1 egg
  • 1tbs of olive oil
  • Salt and pepper

In a pan boil some water. In the meantime peel and cut the potatoes. Add to the boiling water, add the sausages, and later the egg. Boil until the potatoes are soft. The egg shouldn’t be boiled longer than 5min to keep the yolk creamy. Cut the cucumber in thin slices. Drain the potatoes and the sausages. In a bowl, set the cucumber, the potatoes. Cut the sausages in 1cm long pieces, add to the bowl, stir. The potatoes should start mushing and mix well with all the other ingredients. Add the olive oil, salt and pepper. Finally, add the egg cut roughly. Stir well again. Eat right away or later!

Have a good day!

Gnochetti

When I make pasta for ravioli I always end up with a significant amount of pasta that has been floured and roll and is unsuitable for making ravioli again. It has become to dry. Usually I would just keep it that way, cut in squares and boil it or fry it as a little bonus or for finger food with a drink. But recently I have been really attracted to making shorter pasta like troffie, orecchiette, gnochetti… and seeing video of Scusatema on IG really inspired me to make the step and test… the ravioli rolled pasta is a lot drier and hard than the original pasta and I thought it would be perfect for the test. I have little cooking equipment, and thought my little gnocchi board would be good for that.

So I assembled all the remaining pasta in a ball, rolled it in a long stick.

Cut the stick in small pieces, and started rolling them on the board. That went just perfectly. No meed for additional flour, no sticky parts and beautifully shaped gnochetti came out one after the other. Bonus it is super relaxing to do this little gesture to roll the pasta on the board and see them pilling in front of me.

Since I made only a small amount instead of boiling them I cooked them in a little pan with olive oil and a bit of water, and waited for the water to go before lightly frying them, and served them as a little snack.

For sure I will make short pasta again soon! That was so nice!!

Edamame ravioli

Every week, I am hoping for a more quieter week and every week day is getting busier and I end up with very very little time to cook… for example today my lunch was some raw carrots, a piece of Comte cheese and some nuts… as I rushed between meetings and things to do. It is also often a bowl of rice topped with something rapidly cooked (more coming about that soon). So when I manage to have just a little more time to cook I jump on the occasion and I cook some more fancy things. “Fancy” being almost exaggerated!!
The season for edamame is starting now and I got some from the farmers market, which I was thinking I would just boil for a quick use in salad or with rice but then I had this little window of time for cooking and I was all set for making edamame gyoza, but then thought that as delicious it seems, it would be almost too conventional in traditional Japanese flavors, so I decided to opt for the Italian version: ravioli!!!

While making ravioli takes a little bit more time, it is so rewarding and we love them so much that it is always worth eating a bit late!!! For this edamame ravioli, I mixed in the filling the edamame and some pork meat and I dressed them simply with olive oil, salt and pepper. Here is my recipe.

Edamame ravioli

  • 100g of flour (I used whole wheat here)
  • 1 egg
  • a bit of water
  • 100g of ground pork meat
  • 200g of edamame
  • Salt, pepper olive oil

Prepare the pasta by mixing, as usual, the flour, the egg and a bit of water. Knead well and keep for 30min.

Boil the edamame. Once cooled down, shell them and remove the skin as much as possible. In a mortar puree them roughly (as on the above picture). In a frypan cook the pork meat then mix with the edamame. Add salt and pepper. Keep the frypan as it is.

Roll the pasta. Fill the ravioli and close them. Boil a large pan of water and boil the ravioli. When they float move them to the frypan with half a ladle of cooking water. Add olive oil a bit and cook 2min before serving and enjoying immediately.

Edamame fougasse

Ohoh! Exploring new possibilities with edamame will last the whole season!!! This recipe of fougasse came naturally to my mind as I love to bale fougasse for summer evenings drinks or summer lunches when I need something quick.

In Japanese bread shops you can sometimes find edamame and gouda breads, and I like them very much, but the idea of a simpler version (without the gouda for A.) and with olive oil and salt tempted me a lot, that the last batch of edamame I had was used to that purpose.

The result is really nice but my recipe needs a little improvements to emphasize more the edamame. So I am sharing with you the improved version but not tested yet… but I am sure it will be delicious.

Edamame fougasse (makes 1 bread)

  • 200g of flour
  • 3g of yeast
  • 7g of salt
  • Water
  • Olive oil
  • A handful of boiled, shelled and peeled edamame

I only use fresh edamame, so the recipe starts by boiling the pods in salted water. Once boiled and cool, shell and peel them. Add a bit of salt.

Prepare the dough of the fougasse: mix the flour, 5g of salt, the yeast, add 2tbs of olive oil, and water to obtain a soft, silky and smooth dough. Add the edamame and knead a bit. Let rest for it to rise. Once is has started to rise you can work it in the shape of the fougasse, and let rest about 30-60min depending on your room temperature.

Bake at 230deg until golden. When out of the oven spread a thin layer of olive oil and sprinkle a bit of salt. That’s it!!!

Breakfast…

Breakfast, as I often say, is my favorite meal and I would never skip it!!! But it wasn’t always the case, it took me twenty years to be able to eat breakfast… Probably because waking up early to go to school wasn’t adapted to my sleep rythme and I’ve never been a morning person… When waking up to the alarm (which I try not to do too often anymore) I am in an autonomous mode for a (A. would say loooong) while. When I first started eating breakfast, I was in college. At first when I was still home, my father would bring my breakfast to me, no kidding!!!! My breakfasts consisted in things that are really easy to serve without preparation: muesli with milk, a pack of fruits compote, a glass of fruit juice and a large cup of tea. I kept the same routine when I moved out. It could be made easily, but I took it in my room on a silver platter, beautifully organized and served. That was part of the routine of making it enjoyable, together with listening to music and getting ready.

We kept a similar routine for a long time, but slowly replaced muesli by bread or equivalent that we would buy, and the compote by fresh fruits. We also got ridden of the fruit juice. I also adapted my schedule (that I am lucky I can control 99% of the time) to something that fits more my morning slowness, by allowing more time to breakfast and avoiding morning craziness. So that now we don’t buy bread anymore, or only croissants or pain de mie from artisan boulangers once in a while. I bake it most of the time or I prepare pancakes or scones. The music is still an important aspect of our breakfast!

I have endless variations of bread recipes that I am now all trying with the respectus panis approach: with not enriched flour, little salt, little yeast. It works great!!! And I found that it is even more adapted to our schedule as now I prepare the dough in the late afternoon, let it prove a few hours, shape the bread in the evening, put it in the fridge, and in the morning bake it for 20-25min depending on the size and type, which is just perfect for a out of the oven bread for breakfast!!!

The bread in the picture is one of my favorite: 4/5 of plain white flour (I am testing organic Japanese flour providers from different regions of Japan, preferably closer than Hokkaido, I’ll keep you posted once I have found something really nice), and 1/5 of roughly stone grounded whole wheat flour that has a lot of coarse bran in it. It gives the bread an interesting texture and a subtle flavor. I bake it low in the oven hence it doesn’t have the golden color on top, but on the bottom!!!!

While this breakfast routine is what I find the easiest to go with every morning, I like both savory and sweet breakfast. Eggs, bacon, cheese, salad, avocado toasts, honey, jam… everything makes me happy! But there is one thing I never prepare but I love dearly is a true Japanese breakfast… I promise a post on Japanese breakfast and a few recipes in a few weeks!!!

Now time to go surfin’ 🏄🏻‍♀️!!!

Variations around flat breads

I am always amazed by all you can do with just flour and water… and recently I’m getting addicted to flat breads… Remember when I first tried here? Well… the same person that makes the dried chickpeas that triggered my wish for flat bread to eat with falafels, well, also makes chickpeas flour… I use a lot chickpeas flour for socca, but I wanted a change so I decided to explore possibilities with flat breads.

First, I made a trial by replacing 3/4 of the flour by chickpeas flour and that worked perfectly… served with zucchini and basil.

Then, another possibility I thought of was to replace half of the flour by whole wheat flour… and that’s all the same delicious.

Finally, I decided to add seeds to the dough. Caraway or cumin seeds are perfect.

As for cooking I tried two options. One is in the dry thick frypan. To obtain a soft bread, flexible and light. The other way, I added vegetal oil in the pan and fried them. It gives a crispy golden bread. Both were equally delicious but I have a preference for the dry soft ones, in particular when used to eat vegetables such as eggplants or zucchinis…

One thing is sure is that making flat breads is super simple, fast and requires no complex ingredients. They are delicious and fit super well summer vegetables or curry. They will be on our table often!!

Chickpeas flour flat breads

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