Month: September 2018

Winged beans

As I was explaining on IG yesterday, at the farmers market I found a new (to me) vegetable, it is green, fancy shaped and called 四角豆 shikakumame in Japanese. As it is a 豆 mame (bean) I figured I would like it, and after discussing with the farmer who told me it is easy as okra to prepare, I immediately put them in my basket. I wasn’t sure what to do with them but a quick browsing of the web inspired me. And rather than preparing something Asian style, which seems to be what it is mostly used in, I decided to go for something more western style: pasta with butternut squash and crispy bacon and the famous winged beans. That was simple and a great discovery! The winged beans taste like green beans but greener. And the wings are a bit like mushrooms in texture but green… I really loved them! I hope I’ll find more in the future!

Winged beans pasta (for 2people)

– 4 or 5 winged beans

– a piece of butternut squash

– 3 slices of bacon

– 120g of pasta

While boiling water for the pasta, cut the ban and grill it in a pan. Peel the butternut squash and cut in bites. Add to the bacon and cook at medium heat under cover. Wash the winged beans and cut them in bites. Add to the pan, and cook for 8min under cover while the pasta cook. After straining the pasta, add to the pan, stir well and serve. Add a bit of salt and pepper if you like.

PS: I had to remove the comments option from the page because it was trashed with spam… sorry… please use fb or ig or dm me!

Shiso fruits in miso

Shiso or perilla, is this little green plant which vibrant green leave you usually would see served with sashimi. In Japan it is used in many more than that and it’s not just about the leaves, it’s also about the flowers and the fruits. It is not a small tiny plant too, it can be the size of a small bush and it grows like weed, you have one or two the first year and by the next it already triples, and soon you will have to remove half of it!!! Shiso grows easily in the garden but you can also grow it in a planter on your balcony. Leaves are good raw chopped in salads, in omelette, with rice… in tempura too. The flowers are purple and great to decorate and are edible. And the fruits then?

They look like very very tiny fresh hazelnuts and grow on the branch after the flowers. They are in season in September and the best ways to eat them are either tempura, omelette just like the leaves, or in miso (by far my favorite). It is very very easy to prepare. But you won’t be able to eat your preparation until January of the following year!

Shiso in miso:

– shiso in branch with fruits (probably not on sales anywhere so you may need to grow your own shiso)

– regular natural miso

In terms of proportion you need in volume a ratio of 2/1 for shiso fruits and miso.

Pull the fruits from the branch (use gloves otherwise you’ll have brown fingers hard to wash out!!). Wash them and dry them with a kitchen clothe. In a bowl stir the miso and the fruit well to obtain an homogeneous paste. Put in a jar, close the lid and keep refrigerated until January, then you can eat! Perfect to eat with plain onigiri, daikon sticks… to bring a bit of the warm taste in the cold winter!!

Osmanthus fragrans syrup

In the garden, blooming in September we have about 5 or 6 osmanthus fragans or 金木犀 kinmokusei in Japanese . First I didn’t know what it was and I was just charmed by the lovely smell coming from these very tiny orange flowers. It blooms when crape myrtle サルスベリ sarusuberi flowers start to finish, and before the beginning of camelia 椿 tsubaki, or fall colors. Last year I heard from a friend the name of the tree and that it is possible to eat the flowers. But when I learned about that the flowers had already faded and I couldn’t try. But this year I didn’t miss it! When the smell started in the garden I prepared the ingredients and gears for making syrup and finally today I harvested the flowers. It is really nice to harvest these small flowers. It’s quite easy and it smells so good! Collecting 100g like the recipe requires took about 1h. Because we have so many trees we didn’t need a ladder, just reaching for flowers at our height on several trees.

Then making the syrup is quite easy though a little tedious.

Osmanthus frangans flowers syrup (1L)

– 100g of flowers of Osmanthus fragans

– 600g of sugar (I used brown cane sugar)

– 600ml of water (for the syrup)

– 150ml of Cointreau or other Grand Marnier (it’s for washing the flowers, so no alcohol remains in the final product)

The first thing and most tedious step is to clean the flowers. Remove the stems of the flower as much as possible, to keep only the petals. In a metal net or strainer, 20g by 20g of petal, shake gently to remove dirt and small undesirable parts. Then in a large bowl of water add the flowers and 75ml of Cointreau or Grand Marnier and move gently the flowers in to clean them further and remove small bugs… strain in the metal net and do it a second time with again 75ml of Cointreau or Grand Marnier. Keep the flowers in the strainer for 20 to 30min to drain.

In a large pan add the water and the sugar and bring to boil, add then the cleaned flowers, and once it boils again lower the heat and gently stir for 5minutes. And stop the fire and let cool down naturally. Prepare the containers by sterilizing them. Once the syrup has cooled down bring to a boil a second time, and stop the fire right away and pour in the containers. It’s ready!

Corn meal

I haven’t baked a quiche since July 1st and it was more than enough waiting for making one… I baked plenty of fruit tarts during the summer but no quiche… really a pity!!! So I was all about making a classic spinach and tofu quiche for lunch today… but when picking the flour in the fridge (as you may know now, I keep all my flours in the vegetable drawer of my fridge), I found the bag of cornmeal too… and that was it! I wouldn’t make s regular pie crust with whole wheat flour but with a mix of whole wheat flour and cornmeal. And I wasn’t disappointed at all. It brings a touch of corn flavor, like a tortilla, and a bit of crispness. Simply amazing! The spinach-tomatoes-ham-fofu was nice too.

So here’s my pie crust recipe, simple as hell: 100g of cornmeal and 100g of whole wheat flour, 70g of butter, water. Mix all the ingredients, roll and use as a regular. It is also perfect for some small crackers.

Orange risotto

Sometimes the weather feels like eating something warm and with vibrant colors… this weather is just now! Rainy, getting chilly and tired… a bright orange risotto was just what I needed!!!

Carrots for the crunch, butternut for the soft, salmon for the salt and kabosu for the fresh and acid taste. That’s as simple as this! I cut the vegetables in rather small pieces to obtain a good mix and balance of texture in the mouth. I used olive oil as a base and a little of pepper. Nothing else. No broth, no salt. And just the time to have a call meeting and it’s ready to eat.

Have a great Friday!

Rice, umeboshi and diy

Recently it’s been pretty busy both at work and at home. A new job for A. some new challenges and experiments for me, our days in Tokyo pass through without noticing. And when in the countryside it’s very much the same… when we are not working we have a lot of projects inside and outside the house, some waves to catch, the garden to prepare for the autumn and the winter (there are so many trees to trim!), some landscaping I would like to do and some renovations I had in mind that needed to be done. In the end little time for cooking, or only access to some rudimentary gears (I decided to redo our kitchen top… which I’ll explain later). So cooking wasn’t my priority these last few days and it’s been a lot of simple meals, and a lot of rice and umeboshi, the one I made in June-July this year. I live that simple combination because either you eat it with a nice warm plate of roasted vegetables or with a fresh salad of tomatoes and chopped fresh shiso and soya sauce, it is always good, easy to prepare and quite quick! Rather than using a rice cooker, when in a rush just cook in a normal pan, it takes only 15min and requires no care, which leaves the hands free for doing something else. The problem I realize now is that if we continue like that we will not have enough umeboshi to finish the month!!

Now about kitchen top… when we did our kitchen 6 years ago I wanted a wooden kitchen top. At that time the only thing available and that our kitchen maker would be ok to use (it’s been complicated to deal with Japanese workers because there are things they do and some they don’t want too) was an ikea wooden kitchen top. I was ok with it, it was simple to use, just a bit of oil once in a while. And it was ok until last winter… then suddenly it started to get really sticky… like really very sticky… and to mark when cleaning, and actually not being able to clean it properly. So I was tired of it and after a lot of thinking decided that I would wax it instead with a vegetal natural wax. So I sticked some sand paper and waited for a rainy day to start. My plan: start right after breakfast and finish by noon… Optimistic! it was without counting that this stupid oil would not go with just a bit of sand paper, it would for a glue in a second and polishing would not work… I had to strip it off… putty knife in hand I started to strip… but it didn’t work well until I realized that the oil would go easily if the surface was moisten. Things got much easier but still I under estimated the work for removing all the oil… in the end it took the whole morning and part of the afternoon and A. helped me when I got really to tired. The result with the wax is really nice, super smooth and not too shiny, but better equipped we could have done a much better finish… Anytime soon when we can borrow a hand sander!!

Swordfish

When the season for swordfish starts I am always pleased to start eating some, in particular because it often arrives after several typhoons and fish options have been more than scarce in Isumi. After the long months of bonito, it is time for a change. And if I love sanma, which also marks the beginning of the autumn, I rarely cook some because of the smell. But swordfish is perfect for me. I like the consistency of the meat even better than that of snapper and sea bass, and it has not shape at all (I gave trouble eating fishes that have fish shapes in the plate… maybe another reason why I don’t eat sanma much!).

So, the swordfish (メカジキ mekajiki) season is starting and I found some beautiful pieces of Kesennuma swordfish. Kesennuma is a fishing port up north in Miyagi famous for tunas and swordfishes, and that was badly hut in 2011. They kind of made a brand of it, and the swordfish is actually really delicious.

I like to grill or pan grill my pieces of swordfish, with or with marinating it. Now sudachi, the small green citrus fruits ate in season, and swordfish marinated with the juice of 2 and some soya sauce and then grilled was a great and simple recipe!!!

How do you cook your swordfish???

The very last of the summer

After a day of rain this week the weather as turned from end summer to early autumn. The cicadas voice is getting harder to hear and the wind gets chilly in the evening. Even though I am slowly shifting to autumn vegetables, tomatoes and eggplants have my favors to hold the summer a little bit longer, and when I saw these broad beans I couldn’t help taking them and prepare a meal that would still feels like summer. I chose for that a Japanese classic preparation boiling them in a dashi of konbu, just enough so that when they were cooked the liquid was alsmost gone (katsuobushi, or a mix of both is also perfect) and added okra sliced and jute mallow. I finished with light colored shoyu. Served it with rice and umeboshi and an omelette with finely chopped green shiso.

The Indian summer can start now!

Making bread

In the summer 2012 when we bought our house in Isumi I never imagined how much it would be a life changer. At first it was purely a fancy project to have a Japanese house and a garden, a place to do little DIY projects (since there’s nothing we can do in a rented apartment in Tokyo) and interior design… but these 6 years have provided us with a lot of opportunities for thinking about our life style, what we care for, and we want. But all that I’ll write about later. One thing, among a few others, I really got into is making bread (why and how is there). Handmade bread. Hand kneading is such a quiet and nice moment to talk and think after a busy day in the garden, at the seaside or on the tennis court. At first I was just trying to make bread and brioche with regular flour I could find in the supermarkets but I wasn’t happy with non organic flours, then started to bring back organic ingredients from our trips to France: fancy flours, dry sourdough, dry yeast, seeds and cereals. But this solution was not sustainable since my travels to Europe are irregular, that most of the organic products are usually contaminated with pests and they don’t suffer the Japanese climate to well in particular our house temperature variations and humidity variations are quite dramatic. From 2deg to 28deg and from 10% humidity to 90%. I’ve started back then to keep them in the vegetable drawer of my fridge, which is exclusively used for that now. You can keep them very long and without any pest and they don’t loose their taste. But little by little I learned about the locally produced flours and organic flours have started to appear on shelves here and there. Hokkaido is a very nice wheat producer and they have high quality flours. Cuoca offers a great variety of products when you make bread and a variety of Hokkaido flours (they also have French). I personally don’t shop online, I’d rather go to the shop in Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi where I can buy also fresh yeast and choose the flours I like on the spot. But one other great source for finding flours is when traveling around Japan. If you travel a bit in the countryside you’ll discover that many other regions than Hokkaido produce wheat, but likely at a lower scale, and are only sold locally at farmers cooperatives. Try “michi no eki” 道の駅 and JA fresh products markets, they are always a great place to find local food and locally produced rice, beans, and flours… I remember buying amazing black wheat flour near Shiojiri in Nagano prefecture and some super fine white flour in Nasu in Ibaraki prefecture. Options for making bread locally makes me feel better, they are more fit to the Japanese climate and I don’t have to carry kilos of flours anymore with me on my long haul flights! I still carry other staples that I can’t easily find in Japan… recently it’s been semolina, dry fruits, olives, olive oil, but that, it’s another story!

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