Harbor market

Every Sunday morning from 8 to 12 there is a “harbor market” at Ohara fishing harbor. We don’t go very often because the main attractions there are fresh shellfish grilled on the spot, and there are more stalls that have ready to eat food than truly food to buy to take home and prepare. But once in a while, in particular in winter when it is much less crowded we like to go and check it out.

This time I had in mind to buy some ricotta from a local cheese farm, not Takahide, because they don’t make ricotta (and they don’t come to the market anymore) to make ravioli for lunch… a simple picture on IG had the instant effect of me wanting ravioli for lunch… craving… and because there is not much to do in the garden right now I can spend more time in my kitchen!

Not only did I find the ricotta I wanted but also some nice konbu and katsuobushi. I will write later about these two once I will start using them. So back to the ravioli: spinach-pork for A. and spinach-pork-ricotta for me. Prepared with whole wheat flour, and served only with olive oil, salt and pepper. We were so hungry and happy to have ravioli that I just forgot to take a decent shot of them. A. took a rapid one when I was about to through the last one in the water…

For the recipe, as usual for the pasta: 1egg, 100g of whole wheat flour, a bit of water. For the filling, I cooked 100g of ground pork meat with chopped spinach, added salt and pepper for A. and for mine added 2tbs of ricotta. That’s it! I rolled the dough manually and made half-moon ravioli for A. and flowers for me so that we knew which is what when serving.

Angst

Today I was reading some articles and stumbled upon the word “angst”. If I understood the general meaning so that my reading wasn’t impeded, I still wanted a clear definition. It’s not hard to search and find the answer and I started immediately to like this word very much, it described so well what I often feel and the awkward position I feel I am in. Enough to make it the title of this post. I feel angst in particular about the so many questions to which I cannot find answers… of course growth has been a long time one, urbanism too, more recently it was about legacy, heredity and filial pity…

All these questions of course don’t prevent from cooking and from experimenting new recipes. When I was a child Laura Todd cookies opened a shop in Aix en Provence. I loved these cookies very much but the shop didn’t last long and soon replaced by a pizza shop… I was surprised in 1999 to discover a decade after that there was a shop in Paris nearby our house (shop that since then as closed too). A. and I would go there once in a while to buy a cookie. A. loved them even more than I did. Laura Todd cookies are very soft but not oily with always melting chocolate chips of a very generous size. A while ago he asked me to make some cookies that would ressemble that. I didn’t try right away, but finally did and made white chocolate chips cookies and raisin cookies. And it worked out very fine. I prepared a recipe in between cookies and scones. Now I just found that Laura Todd cookies recipe is online on their website… (in French) so now I need to try it!!!

I’ll let you know soon how it is and if it is better than my recipe!

Have a great week… mine is busy and lonely…

14

Last week we celebrated thanksgiving but also 14 years in Tokyo. Time flew so quickly, in particular this year with all the ups and downs and the business that it seems almost yesterday we arrived with rudimentary knowledge of hiragana and katakana, Pimsleur lessons fresh in our heads and one suitcase each…

Timing was perfect to celebrate with the new acquisition of a little plot of land adjacent to our property and start afresh like we did 6 years ago: pulling weeds and cleaning to see what we can do with it. Plans have overflown our heads from the simplest to the craziest… time will tell.

We also celebrated with friends visiting us. And cooking for friends is always a nice moment, recalling when we last meet, what I cooked then, what I will cook this time and what we will do. For this time I prepared a brocoli quiche with katsuobushi and iwanori. But since I had leftovers of the pie crust dough I decided to make some iwanori crackers, and it was really a great match. We took them to Yorokeikoku to see the fall colors and even enjoyed seeing wild monkeys!!

Here is my recipe:

Iwanori crackers

– 100g of flour of your choice, I used whole wheat

– 50g of butter

– a bit of water

– 20g of oat bran

– 50g of iwanori or just nori roughly cut

– 5g of salt

Mix the flour, the butter, the water and the oat bran to obtain a smooth dough. The quantity of water will vary, so as usual add little by little and knead well in between. Then add the iwanori and roll. Sprinkle the salt on top and roll once to fix it. Cut into bite size and bake at 180deg until almost golden. Don’t over cook them. Eat as snack or with a salad.

Cake

When I was in primary school once in a while on Monday afternoon we would have a class where we would do pottery and other crafts and 2 times we cooked: once yogurt cake, and once pound cake. My mom kept these recipes in her classic cookbook for easy recipes that we would use when I was a child to cook together. I did so many of these yogurt cakes, pound cakes and clafoutis, far breton etc… but pound cake was one of my favorite. I love infusing the raisins with rum and drink the remaining juice. It was always a great family hit for tea time. Now I don’t infuse raisins in rum anymore because I can stand alcohol, and it’s been a while I didn’t bake a proper pound cake. But the other day I was planning to make a panettone and bought some raisins for that but then postponed the idea… yet I thought it was stupid to have bought this panettone mold in Italy last year and not using it… so I decided to bake something that would/could pretend being a panettone but that takes so much less time! The pound cake then appeared as the best option! Perfect for a breakfast on the run, as we had to go to sign for our new piece of land!!

Pound cake

– 200g of flour

– 100g of sugar

– 1tsp of baking powder

– a cup of raisins

– 80g of butter melted

– 3eggs

Rehydrate the raisins in hot water, then drain.

In a bowl mix the flour and the baking powder, then add the raisins and coat them well with the mix. Add the sugar, the butter, the eggs and stir well to obtain a creamy dough. In a greased mold pour the dough and bake for 30min at 150deg then at 180 until a knife comes out clean.

The small things

Tonight I’m back home at 21:30, that’s the earliest I got home in quite some time. Though it’s only Wednesday our fridge is almost empty already: obviously I didn’t shop enough this weekend in the countryside. Yet I have a last one of these late summer giant and very ripe tomatoes, so I decided to make some tagliatelle with a tomato base sauce, shimeji and sage. And because it is early and A. won’t be back until the usual 22:00 I can work a few details: adding a carrot cut in small dice to the sauce to add more flavor, peeling the tomato to only have the creamy and juicy parts, cooking at low heat for a longer time to get the sage to perfume the sauce more profoundly. All these small things that I have a tendency to skip and that actually are important to obtain a better result in the plate and for the palate…

The little cubes of carrots and the mushrooms and the sage goes very well together I find. But to eat them with pasta I also find that the carrots shouldn’t take the first place, and therefore should be cut in tiny cubes. The sage thinly cut add a nice touch, but is better when the vegetables are slowly cooked until they almost caramelized, and then are deglazed in the final stage with a fragrant olive oil. Regarding tomato, there is indeed nothing more annoying than cooking tomatoes and ending up with small rolls of skin half attached or floating in a tomato sauce in particular. And tonight peeling the tomato had the bitter taste of sadness because I got used to do it while I was cooking with my friend K. when we visited her and her husband in the Tsunan mountains in Niigata, and this morning we just learned that S. has past…

Shojin cuisine

As I was questioning myself about Buddhist cuisine in China regarding these Chinese beancurd noodles, I decided to do a bit of search and reopen my Shojin cuisine book. I was right, until the 18th century in China buddhist and taoist temples would only serve vegetables soup and tea to pilgrims, the same thing monks were eating. Only it started to be a more elaborated and widespread cuisine during the Qing dynasty (late 17th to 20th century). In japan shojin cuisine was of course imported from China together with Zen by Dogen during the Kamakura period in the 12th-13th century. All the basic about Shojin cuisine were actually written in the 典座教訓 (Tenzo Kyokun) itself inspired by Chinese writings. It has evolved regularly from the early 17th century during Edo period to become shat it is now. Next time I go to China I’ll try to eat in a temple and try local buddhist or taoist cuisine for sure!

But back to my kitchen I decided as I said to reopen my Shojin cuisine book from the Sanko-in past abbess. I always have a lot of pleasure opening a cookbook I haven’t opened for a while and this one is no exception. One thing I love with that book is that it actually tell not only how to cook but also how and how long you can keep the food you have prepared, something that I find extremely useful. Browsing the book, I found plenty of autumn recipes I wanted to try and luckily I had all the ingredients needed to proceed. I tried two recipes one of kabocha and one of burdock. Both extremely simple. And I was very happy with the result, being back in my kitchen and preparing delicious locally grown vegetables. Here are the two recipes, not the way they were in the book but the way I actually cooked.

Burdock:

– 1/2 burdock

– 3tbs of sake

– 3tbs of soya sauce

Wash and cut the burdock in 4cm long sticks. Cut each piece in the length in 4 to 10 depending on the diameter.

Place in a small pan with water and boil 10min. Drain and the in a little pan add the sake and soya sauce and simmer for 20min at low very heat under cover. Eat warm or cold. Keeps one month refrigerated according to the book but it was so good we ate everything at once!!!!

Kabocha with black sesame and yuzu:

– 1/4 of kabocha

– 4tbs of black sesame

– 1/2cup of sake

– 3tbs of brown sugar

– grated yuzu peel

– pinch of salt

Cut the kabocha in bites keeping the skin of course. In a pan put the kabocha and cover with water. Add the sake, and sugar and bring to a boil, cook until kabocha is soft but not mushy. Grill the sesame in a pan and grind finely in a suri bowl. Add 2tbs of the cooking broth of the kabocha, add the salt. Remove the kabocha from the broth, set in a plate, add the sesame mix and finish with grated yuzu peel.

Before leaving

In a few hours I will be in Beijing for work, giving talks, meeting with new students and new research partners, attending a conference and presenting proposals. Well a very tight schedule for less than 72h. Usually eating is not central to these trips, even less cooking, if I ever find time to grab something I’ll be happy! Even more in China, as I am not a big fan of Chinese cuisine: too spicy, too weird, and too sticky-sweety-juicy… I’d love once to find a great Chinese restaurant that does vegetarian or vegan cuisine and not dimsum (i love dimsum). So before going I wanted to prepare food I like and that is very satisfying for the palate.

With my sister visiting last week, I was happy she had thought of bringing something not easy to find here: some fresh cantal cheese. A cheese I particularly love, that is always delicious both straight or in preparations, just like Parmigiano is. So I didn’t eat the whole piece in cubes and slices, rather I kept it to put in a simple recipe made of leftovers pork filet mignon, and a whole blanched cauliflower. I cut the cauliflower in fleurettes and heated the filet in a pan with a bit of oil. Added the cauliflower, salt and pepper, a few drops of olive oil and topped with grated cantal cheese… melting on the hot cauliflower… so delicious and a so perfect combination.

See you on Saturday when I an back Beijing!!! Have a good week!!

Autumn…

November has arrived in a flash… and with it the first chilly evenings that make you want to roll yourself under a plaid with the cat and drink hot yuzu with honey. It’s also the perfect time for long walks to the beach, gardening and receiving guests. This time guests were my sister, her husband and my nephew. In order to have plenty of time to go to the beach I prepared a very simple grilled vegetables with mustard dish inspired by a photo I saw on IG (recipe below) and because my nephew wanted to eat some tonkatsu I ordered a few pieces of filet-katsu at our favorite local meat shop Genji.

Walking to the beach we could enjoy seeing the persimmons on the trees and those prepared for drying already. Something I want to try to prepare once, but this year there was only a few fruits only on our tree… maybe next year…

Autumn vegetables grilled with mustard

– 1 sweet potato

– 1 lotus root

– 1/2 burdock

– 1 carrot

– 1/4 kabocha

– 4 shiitake

– a bit of mizuna

– 2tbs of seeded mustard

– 1tbs of olive oil

Wash, peal when necessary the vegetables, and cut them as you wish, except the kabocha, slice it. In a large pan heated add the olive oil and the carrot, the lotus root, the burdock. Cook at high or medium heat and stir often. Add then the sweet potato, the shiitake, cook at high or medium heat to roast the vegetables add the mustard and stir well yet gently not to break the vegetables. In a pan or in the oven roast the kabocha slices. In a serving bowl add the vegetables then the kabocha slices and top with the mizuna. Enjoy!!!

October craze

October is always a busy month… start of the new term and teaching again, hunting for the new students for the next spring, a few business trips usually, people visiting from Europe and the best season to enjoy outdoor and prepare the garden for the winter, so days and nights are way too short…

But there are always great things happening in October… Yesterday we had the visit of M.-san… though we’ve been in touch through SNS we haven’t met since May 2016 when we delivered to her house two of the four little kittens Pablo has left orphans. When we met then I was heart broken from the loss of our beloved stray cat and of having to split with the kittens so I remember barely the lunch we had together… Time has showed that M.-san is a loving mother for the cats, they’ve grown beautifully and I see pictures of them often on IG!!! But it was time to meet again, and I was happy when she said she would visit us. M.-san is both into cooking and into flowers. And she does that for a living… so it’s very inspiring for me!!! But it was challenging to chose then what to cook for her, as she teaches cha-kaiseki. I decided to prepare something very French, classic and simple, using the products from Isumi. And I opted for a classic quiche lorraine with Isumi smoked ham, milk and eggs from Chiba and a sablé pie crust. I served it with a simple shredded salad, cherry tomatoes and olives from the garden in Aix.

And for dessert a spicy apple compote. Nothing too amazing but simple fresh and delicious products only… we had a great time chatting about food, flowers and cats of course!!!

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