14

Last week we celebrated thanksgiving but also 14 years in Tokyo. Time flew so quickly, in particular this year with all the ups and downs and the business that it seems almost yesterday we arrived with rudimentary knowledge of hiragana and katakana, Pimsleur lessons fresh in our heads and one suitcase each…

Timing was perfect to celebrate with the new acquisition of a little plot of land adjacent to our property and start afresh like we did 6 years ago: pulling weeds and cleaning to see what we can do with it. Plans have overflown our heads from the simplest to the craziest… time will tell.

We also celebrated with friends visiting us. And cooking for friends is always a nice moment, recalling when we last meet, what I cooked then, what I will cook this time and what we will do. For this time I prepared a brocoli quiche with katsuobushi and iwanori. But since I had leftovers of the pie crust dough I decided to make some iwanori crackers, and it was really a great match. We took them to Yorokeikoku to see the fall colors and even enjoyed seeing wild monkeys!!

Here is my recipe:

Iwanori crackers

– 100g of flour of your choice, I used whole wheat

– 50g of butter

– a bit of water

– 20g of oat bran

– 50g of iwanori or just nori roughly cut

– 5g of salt

Mix the flour, the butter, the water and the oat bran to obtain a smooth dough. The quantity of water will vary, so as usual add little by little and knead well in between. Then add the iwanori and roll. Sprinkle the salt on top and roll once to fix it. Cut into bite size and bake at 180deg until almost golden. Don’t over cook them. Eat as snack or with a salad.

Vegetables quiche

Every season has its delicious vegetables and every season has therefore a possibility of cooking quiches that is infinite. For this autumn or early winter version I used all the vegetables I love for their déclinaison of white to green: cauliflower, leek and spinach. Coupled with a rich pie crust made of soya bean flours, whole flour and wheat bran it gave the perfect balance of flavor and texture, and of colors.

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Cake

When I was in primary school once in a while on Monday afternoon we would have a class where we would do pottery and other crafts and 2 times we cooked: once yogurt cake, and once pound cake. My mom kept these recipes in her classic cookbook for easy recipes that we would use when I was a child to cook together. I did so many of these yogurt cakes, pound cakes and clafoutis, far breton etc… but pound cake was one of my favorite. I love infusing the raisins with rum and drink the remaining juice. It was always a great family hit for tea time. Now I don’t infuse raisins in rum anymore because I can stand alcohol, and it’s been a while I didn’t bake a proper pound cake. But the other day I was planning to make a panettone and bought some raisins for that but then postponed the idea… yet I thought it was stupid to have bought this panettone mold in Italy last year and not using it… so I decided to bake something that would/could pretend being a panettone but that takes so much less time! The pound cake then appeared as the best option! Perfect for a breakfast on the run, as we had to go to sign for our new piece of land!!

Pound cake

– 200g of flour

– 100g of sugar

– 1tsp of baking powder

– a cup of raisins

– 80g of butter melted

– 3eggs

Rehydrate the raisins in hot water, then drain.

In a bowl mix the flour and the baking powder, then add the raisins and coat them well with the mix. Add the sugar, the butter, the eggs and stir well to obtain a creamy dough. In a greased mold pour the dough and bake for 30min at 150deg then at 180 until a knife comes out clean.

Shojin cuisine

As I was questioning myself about Buddhist cuisine in China regarding these Chinese beancurd noodles, I decided to do a bit of search and reopen my Shojin cuisine book. I was right, until the 18th century in China buddhist and taoist temples would only serve vegetables soup and tea to pilgrims, the same thing monks were eating. Only it started to be a more elaborated and widespread cuisine during the Qing dynasty (late 17th to 20th century). In japan shojin cuisine was of course imported from China together with Zen by Dogen during the Kamakura period in the 12th-13th century. All the basic about Shojin cuisine were actually written in the 典座教訓 (Tenzo Kyokun) itself inspired by Chinese writings. It has evolved regularly from the early 17th century during Edo period to become shat it is now. Next time I go to China I’ll try to eat in a temple and try local buddhist or taoist cuisine for sure!

But back to my kitchen I decided as I said to reopen my Shojin cuisine book from the Sanko-in past abbess. I always have a lot of pleasure opening a cookbook I haven’t opened for a while and this one is no exception. One thing I love with that book is that it actually tell not only how to cook but also how and how long you can keep the food you have prepared, something that I find extremely useful. Browsing the book, I found plenty of autumn recipes I wanted to try and luckily I had all the ingredients needed to proceed. I tried two recipes one of kabocha and one of burdock. Both extremely simple. And I was very happy with the result, being back in my kitchen and preparing delicious locally grown vegetables. Here are the two recipes, not the way they were in the book but the way I actually cooked.

Burdock:

– 1/2 burdock

– 3tbs of sake

– 3tbs of soya sauce

Wash and cut the burdock in 4cm long sticks. Cut each piece in the length in 4 to 10 depending on the diameter.

Place in a small pan with water and boil 10min. Drain and the in a little pan add the sake and soya sauce and simmer for 20min at low very heat under cover. Eat warm or cold. Keeps one month refrigerated according to the book but it was so good we ate everything at once!!!!

Kabocha with black sesame and yuzu:

– 1/4 of kabocha

– 4tbs of black sesame

– 1/2cup of sake

– 3tbs of brown sugar

– grated yuzu peel

– pinch of salt

Cut the kabocha in bites keeping the skin of course. In a pan put the kabocha and cover with water. Add the sake, and sugar and bring to a boil, cook until kabocha is soft but not mushy. Grill the sesame in a pan and grind finely in a suri bowl. Add 2tbs of the cooking broth of the kabocha, add the salt. Remove the kabocha from the broth, set in a plate, add the sesame mix and finish with grated yuzu peel.

Chickpeas flour

Chickpeas flour is a very typical staple in the south east of France, in Provence we use it for panisses, more east on the Cote d’Azur for socca, and it is always delicious!!!

I always have chickpeas flour in my pantry, I use it to prepare socca and panisses for sure but not only! I use it for making pasta and pie crust. For this quiche recipe, with shiitake and spinach, I wanted an oriental flair so I added cumin powder. Here is my super simple recipe:

Chickpeas flour, shiitake and spinach quiche

For the pie crust (vegan)

– 80g of chickpeas flour

– 80g of regular flour

– 1/3 cup of olive oil

– water

– 2tbs of cumin powder

In a bowl mix the two flours, add the olive oil, stir. Add a bit of water at the time while kneading to obtain a smooth dough. Add the cumin powder and knead a little more. Roll and set in the pie dish. Bake at 180deg for 7min.

For the filling

– 4 fresh shiitake

– a bundle of spinach

– 3 eggs

– 1/3 cup of milk (I used almond milk)

Wash and dice the shiitake, wash and chop the spinach. Cook quickly in their own water in a large pan to soften the vegetables. In a bowl mix the eggs and the milk, add the cooked vegetables. Pour in the pie crust and bake for 30min.

Butternut squash week day 1

Let’s start this week with a very easy and stunning butternut squash recipe that takes only 12min to make if you use already made pasta. If you want to roll your pasta, depending on how quick you are add that time too. I chose spaghetti for that recipe because I wanted al dente pasta rather than too soft pasta like tagliatelle or parpadelle. I am also inclined to think that long pasta brings a better balance…

Butternut squash and hazelnut pasta (2 servings)

– 120g of long pasta (spaghetti…)

– 120g-150g of butternut squash pealed

– a handful of hazelnuts

– olive oil

– salt and pepper

In a small pan boil some water and boil the pealed butternut cut in large chunks under cover until soft. In the mean time boil a large pan of water for the pasta and start boiling the pasta. In a small frypan roast the hazelnuts. When the butternut is soft, remove the water and with a wooden spoon, spatula or a fork purée the butternut squash, add olive oil, salt and pepper. By then the hazelnuts should be roasted, crunch roughly in a mortar with a pestle. Add half of the hazelnuts to the butternut squash purée. Keep the rest for plating. When the pasta are cooked al dente, drain. In the plates, serve the butternut squash purée, add the pasta on top, a but of olive oil, salt and pepper and then top with some hazelnuts. Enjoy right away!

Myoga

Now is the season for harvesting myoga, this little very fragrant plant, delicious eaten with silky tofu and soya sauce or in miso soup. Two weeks ago when I met with our old neighbor she told me that their used to be plenty of myoga in our garden, but I never found any. So after identifying the leaves I went and browsed the garden and found indeed quite a few spots with similar leaves, but nothing like the edible part of the myoga, though I dug around. I was quite disappointed… So when she came again this morning I asked her to show me how to pick myoga. And what I discovered is that myoga plants are gendered and in our garden now we have mainly only male plants… so we found only one myoga with an edible part. The part that is edible is actually the flower, or rather the bud or the stem of the flower. But it doesn’t grow on the plant, it grows independently on the ground about 15cm away from the leafy part. And it has a lovely flower with very thin petals.

Myoga has a very typical flavor that is one of the important flavor in Japanese food. I love eating it in miso soup or with tofu, but also pickled and in vegetables mixes. That’s what it has served for today. A pot of autumn veggies roasted in a pan and with a bit of white soya sauce and thin slice of aburage, and served with rice. Here onigiri filled with red shiso miso.

Really simple and very tasty!

Butternut squash love

Since the very first I saw this season I have bought butternut squash every week and I am not yet tired of it. Whether it is with Japanese rice, risotto, faro, pasta or quinoa, it is always great. In jumbo ravioli also it is perfect. I love the taste and the texture and I love it because it cooks super quickly, it keeps quite long even after cut open. It is the perfect ingredient for me this week since A. is away on business and I cook only for myself. Oh! And I was forgetting that it suits very well melty cheese be it cheddar, Parmigiano or gruyère.

So I’ve tried faro risotto style pure and simple. Topped with plenty of grated red cheddar. For that I first boiled the faro a bit before cooking the butternut squash in olive oil and added the faro.

I did tagliatelle with butternut squash, when it was really late and needed to eat quickly. For that I added the butternut squash cut in bites to the boiling water of the pasta 5min before they were supposed to be done. Topped with grated Parmigiano and a bit of olive oil.

And finally I added it to some quinoa soup, a recipe that over the years has been a classic of the chilly season. I just tossed the quinoa with a carrot, a piece of lotus root, chunks of butternut squash and winged beans in gently boiling water, in order of cooking time. Added some curcuma, salt and pepper and ate all warm.

There are still a few more recipes I want to try with butternut squash, but it will be next week until I buy a new one…

Spicy carrot pie

The other day we went for lunch at cafe Boba and while we were waiting for our food to arrive I browsed an American cookbook on pies. Something that was perfect for the season. And with my basket full of autumn vegetables, I was very much inspired by the recipes with pumpkin, carrots… and one really attracted me. It was a sweet and spicy carrot pie. But of course I didn’t do what the recipe said, I just get the inspiration and made a savory carrot pie with spices. It was super simple and really delicious. I like the idea of a carrot pudding in a pie crust, it makes the pudding easier to serve and gives a good boost with healthy carbs.

Here is my recipe, I hope you’ll enjoy it!

Spicy carrot pie (makes 6 individual pies)

For the pie crust:

– 100g of flour of your choice (I used a mix of white and whole wheat flour)

– 80g of butter

– a bit of water

– cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt

For the filling:

– 3 large carrots

– 3 eggs

– same spices as above

You can add cream and fresh grated ginger, but I had none.

Prepare the pie crust by stirring all the ingredients and kneading until soft. Roll and set in your pie dish(es)

Peel and boil the carrot, when soft, put them in a blender with the eggs and the spices and purée the mix. Pour the mix in the pie crust. Bake for 30min at 190deg. Enjoy!!

And because I had a bit of leftover pie crust, I made chai apple tarts too!!!

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