Tsunan – 津南町

Every once in a while we go to visit our friends and their cat in Tsunan, in the Niigata mountains. We originally planned to go for new year but the snow has stopped us: our car is not equipped for snow… so we took the opportunity of the long golden week to drive up and to stay 2-3 days there. We’ve been there 10 times or more, at each season but it’s been a while we haven’t been in spring and it was the perfect timing for sansai as you already from my previous post, but also cherry tree blossoms and beautiful river streams full of the recently melted snow.

Each time we discover something new, but we also have a few habits. Let’s start with the habits:

Always stop by the COOP shop in the village to buy 三八五 – sanhachigo to make pickles. They also use to have delicious apricot jam but not anymore…
Drive up to Sakae to buy honey and pollen. I started eating pollen a long time ago, under the pressure of my nutritionist mum. At first I hated it, but after years, now I really find it easy to take a spoon of pollen every morning before breakfast.
Stop at the sake factory, not for sake but for some carrot juice! They grow 雪下人参 – yukishitaninjin literally carrots under the snow, and they give a very nice and sweet carrot juice. You may also find the juice other places.
Stop at the local antique shops. Well, actually this time we didn’t since K. gave us plenty of ceramics and glassware.
Take a walk to the geo-park to see the cliff and the river. We really love that place, even if a few years ago they transformed the little path into a wide wheelchair friendly road, with an artificial pond… the view hasn’t changed a bit.

As for the new things… we discovered Nakago – 中子 a small village by a lake with a few sakura tree. The place is on a plateau where they do a lot of farming. The beautifully opened view and the quietness were totally exquisite.

The other place we went was on the way to Akiyamago, a small village with a suspended bridge on top of the Nakatsu river, the Mikura bridge – 見倉橋. It was a beautiful walk down the river, and you can go up the other side of the bridge to the Mikura village. But we didn’t, so next time we’ll visit K. we know were we could go!!!

May 10, 2019

Melbourne

Well well well the title of this post is very ambitious and may be misleading. I am not going to give an extensive review of the city nor of it’s eateries and markets… I was there for three days for work and it was my first time in Melbourne and I didn’t touch a pan or a knife, nor a raw ingredient the whole time. I actually didn’t even enter a supermarket or any shopping place! I was staying downtown where our friends and colleagues live, and they showed me a bit around every morning and every evening. The one thing that I truly enjoyed is that there are plenty of options to go out for breakfast even quite early and D. took me to a few very nice places. The top of the top was Vacation, I liked the fresh and open atmosphere and where I had an amazing avocado toast made with Australian avocados. Topped with sprouted garbanzo beans and green peas it was really divine!! Of course D. also took me to Lune for the best croissants in town (it was also recommended to me on IG by @baker.kobo) and I had there an indeed delicious croissant. Going out for breakfast in a new city, when people move around is really a good way to feel the vibe and discover a bit of their habits. I found that a lot of people grab breakfast on their way or stand in to eat, there are of course some seat in places. But everywhere it is usually quick. Lune in particular reminded me of that cafe in Milano I loved to go to have a croissant and a fresh squeezed orange juice. Breakfast eateries in Melbourne offer a large panel of options with healthy bowls and fresh fruits or bacon sausage and eggs, and plenty of fresh smoothies. There’s a lot of vegetarian and vegan options too. And with strong ties to the UK they have kept the tea culture, so every place has delicious tea to offer.

Dinner wise they took me to different neighborhoods and food was great. There is one thing though I realize when we were in Brisbane last May, Australian restaurants for dinner are utterly noisy. They always have very very loud music and huge space with people shouting rather than conversing as you can’t hear each other because of the music. It makes the whole atmosphere rather exhausting after a day at work.

D. and C. also took me to see some possums living in the city near Flagstaff. They were absolutely too cute!!!

So basically I haven’t seen much of the city in these three days, and that wasn’t the point of my visit, but I know I will be coming again and this first contact was a good one! I am hoping to stay longer next time for more exploration of the fresh local food and a kitchen takeover if I don’t have my own kitchen!!!

March 22, 2019

Taken for granted

This short trip to Beijing has been quite eye opening for me. I realized that there are three things that I take for granted: the quality of the air I breath, the quality of the water I drink and the quality of the food I eat. This third one is more of a life style I have inherited from my family and won’t talk about it today. The two others, I’ve never really thought about it before to be honest… there has been a few times when I was living in Paris I felt suffocated by the pollution in the air, and that the water tasted really bad. In Tokyo of course I have been worried after March 2011 with air, water and food. In early spring and in the summer I sometimes check the quality of the air for pm 2.5 but it has nothing to do with how I felt unsecured about that in China. Last year in Shanghai I was concerned by the air quality but it wasn’t as strong as it felt this time in Beijing. When seeing everywhere that you cannot drink tap water unless boiled, I realize I was living on bottled water in plastic containers, something that I avoid as much as possible to use in Tokyo… and feeling always worried about what I drink was quite strange actually for me and made me think that being able not to care about what is coming out the tap is just a precious gift. Add this to waking up in a smoggy city with air quality quite alarming made me ask myself unformulated questions about this giant gap between ultra-urban areas and rural areas. Not that rural areas are free of pollution… the river cleaning we did a few weeks ago showed me how much farmers destruct their surroundings by being careless and lazy. And I think carelessness and laziness are really two keywords for me that represent very well our societies. Being so careless that in the end you can’t breath the air around you seems unbelievable to me but that’s what it is in Chinese big cities and I do believe that it is not only China… society has decided it’s better to consume more of an electricity produced by coal rather than breathing normal air. Looking always first at serving a purpose that I cannot understand, up to a point where cities are becoming unlivable just revealed to me my misunderstanding of the world I live in, the gap between the ideals I believe in and a certain urban reality.

In the meantime, traveling is always full of surprises and even during such a short and busy visit I discovered at least two interesting things food-wise: beancurd noodles that I had in a restaurant and rose and honey milk tea that I had at a bakery where I stopped for breakfast making quite good pastries and funny artistic cakes (that I wouldn’t eat). I actually have a very bad knowledge of Chinese cuisine mainly for two reasons: the use of many ingredients I don’t eat (jellyfish, shark, seafood, meat…) and the spicy food from some regions. I would love for example to know more about Chinese zen cuisine but never actually heard about any. May be they just ate rice… but these beancurd noodles could have been something they ate… I’ll definitely try to find some information and get back to you soon if I find anything interesting!

November 9, 2018

Food in Tuscany

There is so much to say about it…

Food in Italy is always simple, fresh and great… I love to go shopping on the markets (there are markets pretty much everywhere) and find some local delish, I love to cook the simple fresh vegetables in season. My favorite Italian vegetables are zucchini, with the flower even better), fennel, artichokes, celery, radicchio, ceps and tomatoes. I love also the fresh pasta, the million varieties of cheeses and the prosciutto and the speck… but Italy is also great for herbs and dry fruits: pine nuts, hazelnuts, pistachios depending on the region. Pisa province is a region where pine nuts are produced and I couldn’t help but try them and bring some back to Japan! Recipes using them coming soon!

While in Italy I cooked a few different and very simple meals. I am a big fan of pesto soup and minestrone, so as soon as I can I usually cook one. In particular when the fresh beans are in season. It is really simple: celery, tomato, zucchini, fresh beans is the base, then add whatever: spinach, chard, carrot, onion… cook in salted water, serve with olive oil and grated Parmigiano. Enjoy warm or cold.

Fresh pasta are always good at least so much better than anything you can find elsewhere that there is no need to make tour own!! And stuffed pasta are always my favorite. Ricotta-spinach ravioli is on the top of the list, served with either a tomato sauce or chards and basil simply blanched and then cooked in olive oil with the ravioli. An other quick and delicious recipe!

When I have more time I like to prepare risotto with fresh and seasonal vegetables. Fennels that can hardly be found in Japan make a fresh risotto served with fennel flowers picked during a stroll in the garden. An onion to start with, plenty of olive oil, the perfect risotto rice, a large fennel, vegetable broth, and here is a beautiful risotto after 30 minutes!

Here it is for my selection of simple recipes for a little dinner fix in Italy!

September 4, 2018

Tuscany

Well… I’m just back to Tokyo after spending one week in Tuscany, one beautiful week.

It was A. 5th trip and my third in the span of 9months and now is time to share a few addresses and places I really loved.

One of my strong requirement during our trips was to have a kitchen, and for all our trips except that one we stayed in Florence downtown in a very nicely furnished and large enough appartement at the Domux home Ricasoli. The location is ideal to visit the city, go shopping at Sant’Ambrogio market, San Lorenzo market as all detailed in post on Florence. It is also close to the station and to the Duomo.

This time we wanted to avoid crowd and heat so we decided to rent a house in the countryside, something a little typical of Tuscany: a farmhouse on top of a hill. The villa I picked: villa Monterosoli (top picture) didn’t disappoint us. Remote location but still less than 1h drive from all good places and my work places, very quiet and a nice view. A pool for the morning swims, and a cat visiting, some vineyards and olive groves around.

As for visiting options they are endless. I usually work in Florence and in Pisa, but there are so many options a short drive away to go for a visit for a few hours. From this summer visits I would say that San Gimignano was a great discovery, Siena’s duomo with the full pavement visible this time was amazing, and Lucca a beautiful small and lively town.

Lucca on top of its historical and classic attractions has a nice vibrant downtown with many shopping options, nice cafes, a cinema in the old villa Bottini with a broad movie selection (old and new), a contemporary art biennale which exhibited large paper sculptures in the street. It felt more crowded than the other places we visited.

Lucca contemporary art biennale: paper-art-design

View from San Gimignano’s fortified path

San Gimignano was a really great discovery, the scenic going there, the beautiful towers in the city, the churches with beautiful paintings, the paved streets, the view from the fortified path. Everything there was Tuscany at its top. And curiously it was not crowded!

And of course Siena was as beautiful as it was in February when we first visited. The Duomo this time had the full marble mosaics visible (only from mid-August to mid-September) and that was s great surprise. The modernity in the drawings and the beautiful scenes depicted with only white, ocre and black were really stunning.

And of course there are many other small villages to stop by on the way, to discover, to take a short walk, drink a coffee or a freshly squeezed orange juice (my favorite drink in Italy), such as Palaia, Monteriggioni, Greve in Chianti to only cite a few.

There are also the many farmers markets in the morning to go grocery shopping and discover some of the local products. Talk about that in my next post!!!

September 2, 2018

Paris

Going to Paris in August is always a feast! The city is empty of angry Parisian and everything is smooth and nice. Of course there is no theatre show nor opera to see, little exhibitions and some shops and restaurants are closed for the summer holiday, but who cares? It’s the best time to visit Paris to me. The parks are beautifully refreshing and quiet, no little brats to disturb the quietness, the terraces of cafe are less busy, and everything seems to move at a slower pace or in a foggy heat.

I particularly love to walk in the Luxembourg Gardens, stop here and there and look at people, those playing chess, those playing tennis, those seating and lazying, those running frantically… it was perfect because I was working at ENS and we stayed at the newly reopened Lutecia, and the best way to travel back and forth is by crossing the garden!

So one word about the Lutecia… it has always been for me a landmark on the left bank and a place I wanted to stay at. After years of renovation, it finally reopened in July and I was happy A. booked there for this trip. The renovation is in fact not fully finished and it feels like it will be better in a year or so once they will really have finished it.

One thing that I love when traveling is to do a kitchen take over if I don’t have my own kitchen, and after 3 days in Paris I was longing for cooking and took over my best friend’s kitchen for one evening. She picked a recipe she wanted me to prepare and I picked the dessert.

We ended with some gnocchi with jus d’herbe as proposed in Passedat’s book, snd a mirabelles tart. Two simple and delicious recipes.

Mirabelle tart:

– 1.5 kg of mirabelle

– flour and butter for the dough

– a little bit of sugar to sprinkle on top

Prepare the sablé dough with the flour and butter. Roll it, not too thin (mine was and couldn’t absorb all the juice) to the size of your pie dish. Wash the mirabelle and pit them. Set a thick layer of mirabelle in the dough (they will reduce, so really pack them). Sprinkle a bit of sugar. Cook in the oven for 40min at 180deg.

August 26, 2018

Away from the heat

I am quite ok with the heat in the summer, I move slowly, plan things ahead to never have to run, carry water with me and dress lightly. And if I can swim it’s perfect. I guess my body is also used to it from growing in the South of France. But little Parisian A. is more affected. So we decided to drive north a bit in the Nasu area and the Oku Nikko area for a very short refreshing time. The last time we visited the area was in 2007 in the winter, so quite a change of scenery and a few things have changed since then. Noticeably the Nikki club has closed last summer so we couldn’t stay there again, instead they have transformed the staff quarters into a much cheaper hotel called Artbiotop, where one can experience some craft activities and see the beautiful installation of Ikegami: the water garden. Overall Nasu was almost as hot as Tokyo during the day but nights were a bit cooler. It only really gets cooler when hiking mount Nasu at 1700m and in Oku Nikko by the Chuzenji lake where we visited the British and the Italian residences that have opened to the public since we first came in 2004. And of course we had yuba, a traditional product of Nikko, soba and river fishes. And we discovered by chance a very nice place to eat, while everyone rushes to Chus, the very marketed place to be downtown, we went to Cu-eri, a nice little restaurant that cooks local products with plenty of herbs in a French inspired way.

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July 23, 2018

Australia

Writing while I’m waiting to board a plane to go back home, I’m trying to reflect on this week spent in Western Australia. For the second time only in Australia I’ve found the Brisbane experience a very good one. I had the memory of a rude and rough Sidney, but it was also a long time ago… The nature and the ocean are still wild and beautiful as I reminded them from our trip in New South Wales. This time we didn’t go in any sanctuary to see and pat the animals, though I was dying to pat koalas again, they are so cute… instead we just went to see wild life in the wild, pademelons, roosters, possums, big bats, dolphins and whales along with short hikes here and there around Brisbane. To visit the city and go to work, we used quite a lot the citycycle system to avoid too much walk for my still hacking but not broken toe. It allowed to move quickly from one neighborhood to another. One thing that strikes me usually is the diversity of foreign countries but here it was quite the contrary. A lot of white people and more over blonde, a kind of Japan but whitish!!!

On the food side, not a lot of new experiences except for the already mentioned lemon myrtle that was a great discovery. A lot of local and fresh products though: delicious cheeses, fresh fruits and tropical fruits, local avocados and as it was autumn: pumpkin, sweet potatoes… One great discovery was the sunflower sprouts we bought at one of the organic store, really sweet and delicious. Very little cooking but enough to have fun and play in another kitchen.

Cooking consisted in lentil pasta with olive roasted zucchini, avocado and sunflower sprouts for dinner and coconut and buckwheat pancakes. Nothing really breath-taking but fresh and a nice change to restaurant food.

May 27, 2018

Detour @Brisbane

So, we’ve been in Brisbane for a couple of days now and we’ve tried a few places to dine out but it is not too easy to find nice restaurants in at a reasonable distance from the city center that serves local products… hopefully our friend C. found one very very nice place where we had a great dinner in a nice casual environment. The place is called Detour and is in the neighborhood of Woolloongabba, a short Uber ride from the center.

The menu features an omnivore and an herbivore section. The guys tried the crocodile dumplings, D. and I just stick to vegan/vegetarian dishes that were all excellent. The carrots had a real something different that made them amazing. The desserts, using a bit more molecular cooking were also great. I discovered lemon myrtle, a very Queensland thing, that is just something I would love to eat more and try to cook!!!

Pictures are from the restaurant website.

Detour:

6/11 Logan Rd
Woolloongabba 4102, Brisbane, Australia
07 3217 4880
enquiries@detourrestaurant.com.au

May 24, 2018