Kurashiki – 倉敷

This year so far, we haven’t traveled much abroad, rather we traveled to many places in Japan that were on my bucket list: we went to the north part of Okinawa, to Hakuba in the summer, to Takayama, to the Kiso valley etc… one other place on the list was Kurashiki. So when our visitors from France asked where we could go together, I opted for that destination. October is a perfect time to travel in Japan, the weather is usually nice, warm but not as hot as in the summer, and there is a beautiful light.

 The canal and one of the Ohara houses
The canal and one of the Ohara houses

Because I didn’t have much time with moving and work, I didn’t really prepare our trip in detail, except for train tickets and hotel booking. I prepared it in the train on the way, and I think I did some pretty good job to entertain us 48h. The historical old town of Kurashiki, very well preserved with no electric poles like in Tsumago, with its canal, its weeping willows, and its tiled black and white cellars, is beautiful but actually it is very small. We hesitated visiting the Ohara museum, the first museum of western art in Japan, but then decided that there was better things to see than some Rodin sculptures or some Monet paintings. Instead we preferred the Ohashi house, the Ohara house, and the folk craft museum. Once we also had checked in the nicest cafes and the craft shops, and tried some craft workshop (A. and I finally made our first pottery on a potter’s wheel!!), we were surprised that there is actually more than that to visit… if you have a car… which is actually very easy to find! And much less crowded!!! In particular, the Tamashima area has a few interesting places to visit: Yunoki house, Entsuji temple and Tashima Haguro shrine. One thing also that was worth the drive, is the view from the top of the Washuzan at sunset. The view point is perfect to see the Seto Ohashi and the various small islands in the Seto Inland sea. 

 At work on the potter's wheel
At work on the potter’s wheel
 Entsuji
Entsuji
 Old town of Kurashiki  
Old town of Kurashiki  

Hadaka matsuri – はだか祭り

Some time ago I wrote about Ohara main event: Hadaka matsuri, when dozens of mikoshi enter the sea and it’s a very festive and lively event on the beach. Actually, the event lasts two days, the mikoshi travel around and enter the sea on the first day, and on the second day they parade in the city and they all gather at dusk on the elementary school ground for a great final parade, where they run and throw the mikoshi up in the air. The all parade is lit up with traditional paper lanterns and candles. It’s a very beautiful moment, with each mikoshi team wearing different colors. This year I found that there were really a lot of girls in the teams and their white closes and colorful towels and haramaki were very beautiful in simplicity. I recommend anyone in the area to come to that beautiful matsuri for the two days to enjoy the full event!

Where is “home”?

It’s a bit of a weird week, with travel, changes, so I’m getting a bit lost!

We went to Shanghai for two days, where A. was working, abd I took this opportunity as a writing retreat when I was not disturbed abd could focus on my work. It was very productive, the weather very helpful to forced me inside with almost constant pouring rain. Just 30min of swimming in the morning and a rapid tour of the food corner of the nearby department store where it was funny to see so many Japanese products as luxury ones! We came back to Tokyo last night, this morning we received the keys of our new apartment and we are moving tomorrow within Tokyo and Sunday to Ohara. I also have quite some work to do at the lab with the students preparing some key presentations for their graduation. But, nothing’s better than a home cooked meal to get plenty of good energy and I prepared some very simple Japanese things: multigrain mixed with rice, eggplant and miso, scrambled eggs, and jumbo umeboshi. A good reason to take a little break!

 staple food of grains and beans at Shanghai department store's food corner
staple food of grains and beans at Shanghai department store’s food corner

Yamanashi!!

 entrance of Erinji
entrance of Erinji

The last stop of our trip was in Yamanashi prefecture to visit wineries and fruits orchards. I had know idea what too expect and what we would actually see, and it was a great surprise! First the place we stayed at (Fuefukigawa onsen – 笛吹川温泉) was fantastic with a chef preparing delicious cha-kaiseki cuisine and adjusting easily with my very special food restrictions. We had plenty of local products at each dinner and breakfast there and it’s been a long time since I haven’t had proper cha-kaiseki. Probably since my last cha-kaiseki class too many years ago… so I was really happy! Then we went to visit on foot the surroundings and were enchanted by the mix of orchards and residential areas near Erinji, a remarkable temple with old beautiful pine trees. In the orchards one can find grapes of course, but also peaches, chestnuts, persimmons, apples… Most people may be chocked by the excess of care given to the fruits: each may have a little paper hat to protect it, and in may cases they are wrapped in a little paper bag. It results in fruits that are almost all perfect, protected from bugs, heavy rain, direct sun…

 protected grapes
protected grapes

Many places on the road sides sell fruits to eat directly on the spot or take away, it gives a very casual, not Japanese atmosphere that was very interesting!!!

 panoramic view of the Suntory winery
panoramic view of the Suntory winery

Want to know more about what to see and where to stay? Leave a comment!!! 

Nakasendo, Magome juku – 中山道・馬籠宿

 Terraced rice fields along the hike to Magome
Terraced rice fields along the hike to Magome
 Magome juku
Magome juku
 Yakimochi
Yakimochi

We are still on the road both by car and by foot with A. And after Tsunan, Hakuba, Azumino, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Gero, Ena we are now in the Kiso valley, or rather on the old road Nakasendo, in a very nice little inn where we are the only guests and very well taken care of. Our hike today, shortened by the heat has taken us to Magome juku, an old post town on the Nakasendo, one of the roads widely employed to travel between Kyoto and Tokyo in the past, a still very well preserved place with very picturesque views and old houses. Back at our inn: Shinchaya, our host had prepared a huge dinner as could be expected in every minshuku and ryokan. What is great with minshuku compared to ryokan is that it is more homemade-like food and easy to get recipes directly from the cook! For addresses and tips about traveling in the Kiso valley, please leave a comment!

This time the nice surprise was what is called yakimochi – 焼き餅 but it is not made of rice! The recipe is quite simple and the results quite delicious!

 Yakimochi – 焼き餅 from Shinchaya

– a few taro – 里芋

– buckwheat flour

– salt

– soya sauce

– fresh ginger

Boil the taro, and peel them. Mash them with a fork, add some salt and the buckwheat flour to obtain a smooth mix. Make paddies with the mix and grill them (oven, pan…). Peel and grat the fresh ginger. Serve the grilled paddies with soya sauce and the ginger.

Wasabi – 山葵

 At work
At work

Wasabi is an important ingredient in Japanese cooking. It is of course used for sushi, but also with tofu, soba noodles… It is an autochthonous plant that grows naturally nearby clear streams. Historically it was first used as medicine in Nara period (700AD) before being popularized as food during the middle age: Muromachi period (1300~). And probably with the sushi boom in the early 1900’s wasabi has been more in demand and a few farms were created. That’s then that the now world biggest wasabi farm started. Daio farm started in 1910 but it took about four decades to become a decent wasabi farm and what it is now. One can easily imagine the landscape transformation such an installation has provoked and how intensive production to meet demand and keep price low affects the rural and natural areas. Yet Daio wasabi farm is an interesting place to visit and it is quite beautiful. The super pristine waters needed for the culture of wasabi, the little plants in the rock bed and the curvy lines of the field bordered by leafy willow trees are really quiet and peaceful. It is a very different landscape from those usually seen in Japanese. Picturesque like a Seine and Marne village cherished by the Japanese painters in the 1900’s or the japonism painters (top picture). Visiting Daio farm is a really nice stroll. It is also possible to see people at work to extract the stem from the plant (upper picture), visit the little history museum and try some wasabi food (we had ice cream). Since they also sell fresh wasabi at the farm I was looking for a cookbook or something to learn more about how to use wasabi, but none was available. An other time…

 Wasabi fields and pristine water  
Wasabi fields and pristine water  

Daio wasabi farm: free entrance, open all year round from 9:00〜17:20, count 1-2h stroll

 

 

Learning new recipes

We are now in Hakuba for the second stop of our little Japanese road trip. Staying as usual at La Neige Higashikan where we are pampered as usual. We spend our days hiking and visiting the surroundings, which are very different from the winter. It’s the first time ever I go to the mountain in the summer (I am more of a sea person) so seeing all the lifts, and the lush green pasture is very new to me and going up the mountains and hiking among the streams and the flowers was a great experience!!! 

What was really great is also to have dinner at our favorite Hakuba restaurant: the humming bird. The chef and his wife received us like kings! They opened the restaurant just for is and cooked us some delicious local cuisine, like awabitake: some delicious mushrooms from Nagano area, rhubarb compote… and some home made pickles that tasted very different than what we usually eat. The secret of such sweet taste was very simple but new to me: to pickle it they used plum syrup!!! 

Pickles in plum syrup: 

– plum syrup in enough quantity to cover the vegetables

– cucumbers

– 1 dry red pepper (togarashi) 

Wash the cucumbers, remove a bit of the peel to create stripes. Cut the red pepper in thin slices. Add the red pepper in the plum syrup. Dip the cucumbers and wait a few hours to one day. Remove the cucumbers, wash them briefly. Cut and serve.

Have a beautiful month of August!!! 

Salsola – okahijiki

Trying new vegetables is always fun! In particular when you can easily imagine how to prepare them! So when we went to the farmers market and I found okahijiki-おかひじき  I simply couldn’t wait to cook them. And with the super hot weather I thought of a simple Japanese meal again with rice, grilled fish and umeboshi, and I wanted to have some miso soup with red miso (the one more appropriate for the summer). And to make it more country-like I didn’t use katsuo bushi but rather niboshi from sardines -鰯 for the soup base. I simply added the okahijiki after washing them and removing the hardest parts to the broth and cooked them 2min. I added the red miso as usual in the end, just before serving.

Have a beautiful week!!! 

Chichibu – 秩父

Two years ago we went to see an exhibition of meisen kimono and I totally felt in live with this new technique to make more affordable kimonos. I like how it is linked with the societal changes that were occurring at that time, freeing women,  and the cultural changes with Japan in between western and traditional cultures. The vibrant colors, the rough patterns are characteristics of meisen, but not only. In the 1930’s there were several regions that were producing meisen. Hachioji and Chichibu are two close to Tokyo. A few month ago, one of our friends moved to Chichibu so it was the perfect occasion to visit her and check the meisen museum and visit the city.

Chichibu is about two hours by train or car from Tokyo in Saitama prefecture. It is a small city nested in a valley where the Arakawa river passes, and surrounded by mountains. The city expanded significantly with ghe meisen industry and a lot of buildings from the Taisho-Showa periods remain. The meisen kan 銘仙館is a former factory. The wooden buildings are really nice and it explains simply the history of meisen and the techniques used to make meisen. They still make meisen with new contemporary patterns. What attracted me to that place was that it is possible to make some meisen: there are three activities cutting-dying-weaving. I really wanted to dye but it was not possible that day so we weaved, and it was fun. Strolling in the city that has many cafes and craft shops was also great. I came back to Tokyo with second hand kimonos and wood furniture… and pumped up with greens and mountain air!

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