Tag: healthy

Kintsuba

Sorry for the delay! I was hoping to publish it much earlier but then I got busy with work and I am struggling with wordpress and jetpack… technical issues that are getting more and more annoying.

So to continue with adzuki, there are a few more recipes I would like to share, and as promised on IG, kintsuba was one of them. It’s a slightly more elaborated recipe of wagashi than those with just anko and mochi or shiratama. I like it very much for the variations that exist, it can be with sweet potatoes, including walnuts etc… so many options… I like it also for its very graphic visual. It’s a little square “cake”. Kintsuba consists of a soft and melting jelly and a thin cooked skin. Making kintsuba is simple but takes a bit of rest time as it uses agar agar and it takes 2h for it to solidify. Then there is a frypan cooking step to finalize them. But they are really delicious and worth trying.

Kintsuba also uses an ingredient that is often used in Japanese sweets: shiratamako. It’sa kind of rice flour but made from cooked mochi rice.

Kintsuba (4 pieces)

For the beans jelly

  • 100g of tsubuan or anko
  • 25ml of water
  • 1g of agar agar

For the skin

  • 25g of wheat flour
  • 5g of shiratamako
  • 60ml of water
  • A bit of cooking oil to grease the pan

First of all the jelly. It’s quick to make but as I said it takes about 2h for the agar agar to stiffen so better do this step ahead. Once you have the rest is rather quick.

In a pan heat the water and the agar agar, stir well, when it comes to a boil lower the heat and continue stirring for 2min. Add the anko or tsubuan prepared before hand as in the recipe here. Continue stirring for 5min at low heat. Then move the paste into a dish that is square ideally. I use a Japanese tofu and jelly stainless steel dish for that specific use (see below picture). The jelly should be 1-2cm thick in the dish. Let cool down and refrigerate for 2h. That’s it for the jelly. You can eat it once it has stiffen as a jelly.

Once the jelly is stiff, take it out of the fridge, cut it into 4 pieces of 4x4cm approximately. In a bowl mix the ingredients for the skin. If you use shirotamako, you will need to crush it to powder it. It’s very easy. Stir well. Heat a fry pan and grease it. Now dip one face of a square in the skin dough and put this face down in the pan. Cook until that side is dry and no longer sticky. Repeat for each side. If you think your skin is too thin, apply a second layer. You can eat right away or keep a few days in the fridge.

  • Preparing the jelly
  • Jelly stiff and skin dough ready
  • Cooking the skin
  • Ready to eat!

The magic of the little red beans

One thing I have very rarely talked about here is adzuki – 小豆 literally small bean. They are present in many Japanese recipes and in most of the Japanese sweets. In fact beans are an important staple in Japanese cuisine: to name only a few the soya beans or daizu 大豆 literally big beans, the traditional jumbo black beans or kuromame 黒豆 for new year and of course the tiny adzuki!

raw adzuki beans

These little beans are usually cooked with sugar and salt to make tsubuan 粒あん when the beans are kept almost whole, or anko あんこ when the beans are puréed into an homogenous paste. The paste of tsubuan and anko is then used in many preparations: yokan, dorayaki, daifuku, ohagi, kintsuba, oshiruko…

Today let me introduce the basic recipe for anko and tsubuan and of oshiruko お汁粉, one of the traditional new year “soup”. Even though adzuki are dried beans they cook in 1h only so they are surprisingly easy to use.

Anko and tsubuan (makes 500g which is a lot!)

  • 200g of dry adzuki
  • 200g of brown sugar
  • Water
  • A pinch of salt

Rince the beans and put them in a pan, cover with water, bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to keep a steady boiling for 5min. Then drain the beans and throw the water. Return the beans to the pan and cover with ample water and bring to a boil again. Cook at medium heat for 40min, until the beans are almost soft. Drain the beans, throw the water, return the beans to the pan, add the sugar and cook at low heat and stir gently until the remaining moisture is gone. Add a pinch of salt. For the tsubuan that’s it. For anko you need to purée to obtain a paste.

Oshiruko (1 serving)

  • 50g of anko or tsubuan
  • 15cl of water
  • A small piece of semi-dry mochi to grill

In a pan heat the bean paste and the water to obtain a kind of thick soup. In the meantime grill the mochi. Serve the soup, add the mochi and enjoy!!! Beware that the soup, because of the sugar can be really hot.

Christmas crazy, no more…

The frenzy of Christmas leaves me more and more perplexed and this year, having the opportunity (if one can says so) to spend it at home, just like a normal day off was actually more than welcome. Since we’ve been in Japan, rare are the years we haven’t spent Christmas with our families in Europe. While a family reunion is nice, Christmas is a time I dislike being in Paris, it’s dark, gloomy and cold. We are always suffering from jetlag, waking up at 5:00am when it’s pitch black outside and it will stay so for another 3 hours… better yet when we spend Christmas in the south of France, or even better in Italy. I love so much better the Italian spirit… But jetlag and dark mornings are not the only reason why I dislike so much this period, what I fear the most about Christmas are the long dinner and lunch that go with it, the sudden abundance in food like it were the only day we can eat and we have to eat them all from the appetizers to the mignardises… in magazines, instagram and wherever else… giant turkeys, creamy cakes, chocolate overdosed buches…

This is millions miles away from my conception of good food and good eating. Why shall you wait for Christmas or new year eve for champagne, caviar, foie gras and truffle and presents??? For fine chocolates and treats??? Why on earth would you get them all on one day??? For me, everyday is a cooking feast and every day is worth a present, I love the concept of unbirthday we should have an unchristmas too! I can’t wait 365 days and then just have to take it all in a snap! This is too ridiculous. Maybe also because my birthday is so closed from Christmas. Also, for me, a festive good meal doesn’t need to have fancy ingredients (actually I dislike most of them…), it just needs love in the kitchen and at the table and a few basic products. So the very best part of a European Christmas is undeniably the breakfast, really early, in the kitchen overlooking the garden still in the darkness: pieces of pompe a l’huile or slices of panettone dipped in a cup of hot black tea and tangerines peeled carefully and eaten slowly🍊 is what makes me the happiest. When all is still quiet.

Pompe a l’huile and tangerines

This year, no travel, no jetlag, no dark morning , no family reunion, and no Christmas party with friends, it was just the two of us in our country house. Perfect. I prepared rustic potatoes and smoked ham ravioli for Christmas eve, and pompe a l’huile for the morning breakfast, which wasn’t dark as in Japan the sun sets early, and early enough to catch up with family still on Christmas eve. Luckily Isumi is well stocked in tangerines groves, so it’s really easy to find some good ones… ours from our tree are long eaten! And that was a perfect Christmas.

I wish you all a happy holiday season!

Christmas ravioli, just the usual ravioli filled with smoked ham and potatoes, dressed with onion and shiitake

Kwarezimal… again and perfect!

A few months ago I made Kwarezimal and posted the recipe. Kwarezimal are these Maltese vegan treats usually for easter that we had in Valetta last year when visiting. My first attempt at recreating these delicious sweets was tasty but I wasn’t quite happy. The recipe posted reflected the slight modifications needed to improve it but I haven’t tested it fully: a little overcooked and not enough moist from the honey. Also a slightly too strong taste of almond compared to what I wanted and the other ingredients. As these treats are rather rich and nourishing they are perfect in winter with a hot tea after working outside in the cold in the garden or after playing tennis, or both. So I decided to prepare them when the thermometer hit the 5degrees in the house in the morning. What best than working in the kitchen near the oven while the house warms up. I used the recipe posted earlier this year with a few modifications in the process, the shaping (made a smaller double bite size, faster cooking) and the topping: honey dip + hazelnut + pistachio. And made one slight change in the ingredients amount: double tap of cocoa powder. So here is the new recipe. To be honest it was perfectly delicious. Hard to stop eating them!!!

Kwarezimal (makes 18 double-bite size pieces)

  • 150g of almond powder (or hazelnut powder)
  • 100g of flour
  • 60g of brown sugar
  • 1tsp of orange blossom flower
  • 2tsp of cocoa powder
  • 1tsp of cinnamon
  • 1tsp of clove
  • 1/2tsp of cardamom
  • the zest of half an orange or any other citrus fruit (I used yuzu this time)
  • a bit of water

For the topping:

  • a small handful of pistachios
  • a small handful of hazelnuts
  • 3tbp of fragrant honey

Pre-heat the oven to 180 while mixing all the ingredients (but those for the topping) together. Add a bit of water and knead until you obtain a dense but not sticky dough.

Roll the dough to a 5-7mm thick and cut the double-bite size with a shape or with a knife. Other option is to take small balls and shape them the way you want. A flat surface is better for the topping. Set on cooking paper in the oven for 15minutes.

In the meantime, crush the pistachios and hazelnuts of the topping, and set in the plate. In another plate a bit deep, put the honey. As soon as the Kwarezimal are baked and out of the oven, flip a few of them in the plate with the honey, and leave for a couple of minutes. Then dip the sticky side in the pistachio-hazelnut mix and flip on a dish or back on the cooking paper, repeat with the others and let cool down before enjoying!!

New local cheeses 🧀

On rainy days when we can be outside in the garden, in the ocean or elsewhere there are a few things we like to do. One of them is to look at real estate agencies websites (that’s actually how we found our house), and simultaneously look at google map satellite view and see the properties, the local terrain… and usually find new things around, hiking spots or roads to explore by bicycle. That’s exactly what happened the other day. While we were searching for woods to acquire (without success) we found the cheese factory called Ikagawa that is just 8km away from home on a nice small road, so a perfect short ride by bicycle. Not that Ikagawa farm is new. They’ve been around for at least 10 years. Just we never found out before…

As soon as the weather got better we took out bicycles, went up and down the hills inland and found the place. From the website it seemed tiny, but it looked like the cows were there. They weren’t, they are in the farm 10min ride away, and as it was late and getting dark we didn’t go. We only saw a very friendly dog and a goat. And the tiniest “shop” that is barely a counter. We were nicely welcomed and presented with the cheeses. A few varieties, but the ones I came for were the hard cheeses 🧀. They have two varieties of hard cheese. I got both.

I baked a sourdough bread back home. Oh! Yes! Sourdough… you read well. I cook everything sourdough now and I am very pleased with it. I start to get things well now!!! And breakfast for the next day was all set! Both cheese were delicious and we’ll be back for sure! We are so lucky that Isumi has such delicious cheeses factories and it is really great to see that there are many farms doing different cheeses. If you come around Isumi, I recommend you get a cheese factory tour!!!

Wafu pasta 和風パスタ

If you’ve been following me for a bit you are no stranger to the fact that I LOVE pasta. All kind!!!

Wafu pasta are a common thing on our table, even if for Italian people I reckon this is a terrible thing. But honestly… it is delicious, and since it mainly involves spaghetti or capellini, one could almost consider them as noodles… sorry if I make a big leap here!!!

Wafu pasta to me are a mix of Japanese vegetables, soya sauce, sesame oil, sesame or nori topping etc… this time my recipe is super simple and really tasty: leek, mizuna, sesame oil, sesame seeds and a good doze of soya sauce, with half whole wheat spaghetti. That’s how much simple lunch can be!!

How do you like your wafu pasta???

Lotus root burgers

I often talk of recipes with lotus roots. It’s a Japanese staple easy to find when in season and super very versatile to cook and delicious. I love it in Japanese classic preparations such as stuffed or with vinegar, but also in more western style like on pizza or in quiche… lotus root is reaching the end of the season but there are still a few more weeks to enjoy it luckily!!!

Lotus root in pizza and quiche

In Japanese supermarkets, you pack your shopping goods after the cashier on dedicated tables that have small bags, tapes and usually a few advertisements for local things or recipe cards. I like to look at these recipe cards, they sometimes remind me of a recipe long forgotten, an ingredient cooked last too long ago or just an idea for a new recipe. That’s how the lotus root burgers came to my mind. The recipe is rather simple and very tasty, it is made with chicken meat but it can easily be replaced by hard tofu for a vegan version. So let me share it with you.

Lotus root burgers (2 servings)

  • 10-15cm of lotus root, about 4-5cm diameter
  • 100g of ground chicken breast or drained hard tofu
  • 2tbs of miso
  • 50g of panko
  • 1 egg
  • A bit if oil for frying

In a bowl mix the meat or the tofu, the miso, the panko, the egg. Stir well.

Peel the lotus root and cut 12 regular slices of 4-6mm. Chop the rest of the lotus root and add to the mix.

Pick one slice in your hand. With a spoon cover with the mix to obtain about a 10mm layer, sandwich with another slice.

In a non sticky pan slightly greased with oil, fry the 6 burgers in both sides. Serve with rice, and add the juice of a yuzu for an even tastier experience. Et voilà!!!

Little forest’s walnut rice

It is rare enough for me to talk about what I read (except cook books) or watch here, but once in a while I stumble on something that I find inspiring (cooking wise I mean).

Every evening while we enjoy a simple meal we watch a movie (or more often half of one, as we just collapse on the sofa, exhausted of our day). Finding a good movie that matches our mood is not always easy and after a bad match with an American movie two days ago, and a British movie the day before, we opted for a Japanese movie. While I was cooking dinner, A. told me let’s watch “little forest”, I said “yes, why not” without any clue about what it would be about. I trusted his judgment. So we sat with a hot plate of potatoes and cabbage, flavored with thyme and bacon and got on a trip in time with the movie: summer in the Japanese countryside. The sounds, the color… but what caught my attention was in the opening title credits a mention to “food presentation”. Then I understood that this will not be just a movie… and it is not at al, no plot, no story. It is organized around a few seasonal recipes (there are two movies: summer/autumn and winter/spring) based on local products mostly from the garden or foraged in the nearby woods. Amazake, gumi jam, simmered wild vegetables, kuri no shibukawa ni (I was mentioning in my previous post)… and this recipe of 胡桃ご飯 kurumi gohan walnut rice. When I heard the word I wasn’t sure I got it right, but I did indeed. And the recipe seemed really lovely so I had to try it! Of course I didn’t go to Iwate countryside (where the movie was shot) to forage walnuts, the season has past anyway, but I just wanted to give it a try as it is something I had never heard about, so I used the walnuts I had.

Walnut rice 胡桃ご飯

  • 1 go of Japanese rice (I always use Isumi grown Koshihikari)
  • 1 large handful of shelled walnuts
  • 3tbs of soya sauce
  • 2tbs of sake
  • 1tbs of sugar

In a mortar (ideally a suribachi) crush the walnuts until you obtain a mix of coarse and fine parts (in the movie she crushed them to a paste, but I prefer having some coarse pieces left). Wash the rice and set in your cooking recipient with the normal amount of water for cooking Japanese rice (rice cooker, pan with lid, donabe…). Add the walnuts, the soya sauce, the sake, the sugar and cook as usual. That’s it. Serve warm or keep to eat at room temperature.

I served it with spinach and pork sautéed, it is rather easy to accommodate with anything seasonal too: pumpkin, cauliflower…

If you want to watch the movies, I recommend the first one (summer/autumn) much more than the second (winter/spring). There is no story, just a slice of life, and many recipes. The movie is inspired from a manga which I haven’t read. Not a big fan of mangas…

There is a Korean remake as well…

Quick ravioli

“Lucky” store in Isumi not only sales wines, sakes and rare whisky (they still have some aged Hibiki, which is quite rare to find now), they also sale a few local products with a small stall of cheeses. So while A. browses the liquor shelfs, I usually check the local cheeses from a tiny cheese factory. I like their ricotta, their cottage cheese and the sort of dried mozzarella they make. More than often the shelf is rather empty… but last time I got lucky as there was some ricotta. Ricotta… hum… together with the spinach season starting… that means ravioli!!!

I planned to do them on Saturday night originally but I got busy and wanted to sleep early before my first bodyboard contest, meaning waking up before sunrise… so ravioli making was postponed… until last night when A. was having meetings until rather late so I had a bit of time to cook.

The longest wave I’ve ever ridden and got the highest score with in the first round of the contest!!

But I had not too much time either, so it had to be quick… and in Tokyo my kitchen is tiny and my pasta machine is in Isumi so it would be hand rolled pasta… I also realized I was out of eggs so that would be vegan pasta, a bit more difficult to roll, adding to the challenge. I decided that paper thin pasta would be for another time, so I prepared something almost like some Russian pelmeni… It was truly delicious!!! So here is my recipe below, enjoy!

Quick ravioli (2 servings)

For the vegan pasta

  • 100g of flour
  • 2tbs of olive oil
  • A bit of water

For the filling

  • 100g of fresh ricotta
  • A few bundles of spinach
  • A handful of walnuts
  • Salt and pepper

Mix the flour and the oil, add a bit of water and knead to obtain a smooth dough. Add water if needed drop by drop. This shouldn’t take more than 10min to make. I did it between two meetings!!! Let to rest for 1h or 2 under a moist cloth. That gives time to work a little longer!!!

For the filling, wash the spinach and blanched them. Drain very very well. In a bowl mix with the ricotta, salt and pepper. Squeeze the walnuts as fine as possible, and to the mix, and stir well.

30min before dinner time, roll the dough of a surface tipped with flour. Set about a tea spoon of filling for one ravioli. Save a tbs of filling for the sauce. Cover with a layer of dough, close and cut the ravioli. Cook a large pan of boiling water. In the meantime in a frypan add olive oil and the leftover filling, stir. When the ravioli are boiled move them to the pan without draining them properly, and cook them two more minutes in the pan, covering them well in the sauce. Serve and eat! You can add a bit of freshly grated parmegiano.

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