Pain au lait

I’ve been baking a lot of breads these days but suddenly I felt like eating a variety of other baked things such as brioche, until A. saw a picture of a pan bagnat in a magazine and asked me to make one for him. I didn’t see the picture, and instead of thinking of the classic pan bagnat from the south of France, that you can eat in Saint Tropez or in Nice, in a kind of ciabatta bread, a little dry, I thought about the soft and melty version in a pain au lait, went straight to the kitchen and started making dough for pain au lait. I used to use the recipe from Kayser bread book, but decided to change, and opted for a mix and match version. The whole thing ended up in delicious, soft and tasty perfect little breads. And that’s when A. told me that the pan bagnat he saw was not in a pain au lait… 🙁

No problem I said, how about egg and ham sandwiches instead???

And that’s how they turned out… and it was damned delicious. So here is the recipe of the pain au lait.

For the egg sandwich filling, I simply hard boiled 3eggs, chopped them with a knife, add a table spoon of olive oil, a table spoon of mustard, that’s it.

Pain au lait (makes 8)

  • 280g of flour
  • 3g of dry yeast
  • 70g of butter
  • 35g of sugar
  • 100g of milk
  • 5g of salt
  • 1 egg + 1 egg optional for cooking

In a bowl mix the flour, the sugar, the salt and the yeast, add the egg and the milk and knead. Add the butter and knead until smooth and not sticky, it may take a bit of time. Let rest under a cloth until it almost doubles. You can flip the dough once in the meantime. Rising time will depend on your room temperature, your yeast, and the original temperature of ingredients. For a faster rise, use ingredients at room temperature.

Once the dough has doubled almost, dust your working surface with flour and the ball of dough. Flatten it and then make a rough oblong shape. Cut pieces of 70g-90g each, shape roughly in sausage. Don’t work too much the dough. And set on a sheet of cooking paper. Leave for 1-2h. Pre-heat the oven to 175deg. If you want perfectly golden little breads, use an egg batter. I you don’t care about the color, just spare it.

Bake at 175deg 10min then at 170deg another 10min or until perfectly golden. That’s it!!!

Have a good week!!

Chocolate focaccia

Yes! You read well… I told you I was back to back to baking… When I was a first year PhD student the first international conference I attended and presented at was a huge conference held in Barcelona. At that time A. had plenty of holidays and surely plenty of time to take them, so we were always traveling together. We spent one week in Barcelona and a couple of days in Sitges. And one culinary thing that stayed for ever in our mind was the dinner, or more the dessert, we had on lovely terrace nearby the museum of contemporary art. The museum was still fairly young and the surroundings all in development. Using the base of the traditional pan con tomate it was a pan con chocolate. You can imagine with bread and chocolate in the same dish we would go for it, and this has surpassed our expectations by its simplicity and its tastiness. It was simply the same as pan con tomate replacing literally the tomatoes by dark chocolate: a toasted slice of bread with melting dark chocolate topped with fragrant olive oil and salt sprinkled. Back home I remember cooking some once in a while and always enjoying it. So this time while I was making the dough for my rosemary focaccia, I decided to keep a bit of the dough to test a chocolate focaccia. And like I though it would be, it was delicious. I’m sure you’ll see some more soon, in particular the picture doesn’t give a fair idea of how delicious it was!!

Little breads

Recently I haven’t posted much about bread making. I made a trial for a panettone which was a delicious “something”, but not a panettone the recipe I used from “journal des femmes” website was just a big scam, after more searching in some cookbooks, I think I have a nice recipe to try. I also baked less because the past weeks have been quite cold and I know I have troubles making the dough prove and raise properly in this cold everything ends much more compact than it should.  But taking this as an opportunity I wanted to make an energetic breakfast so I decided to bake to make oat wheat breads and flaxseed little breads with whole wheat and spelt flours. The result was really nice. Because of the cold the breads were very dense and compact with a beautiful golden color. The taste and texture were exactly what I wanted, so even when your house is coldd you can bake! Don’t expect to make fluffy brioche or bread loaf, but for compact and nourishing breads it is perfect!!!

Semolina bread

When we were in Sicily I bought different types of flour and in particular a delicious semolina. I used it often for making pasta but I suddenly remembered a bread recipe using it and decided to try it for our breakfast this morning. The process is basically the same as making bread with plain flour except that 1/3 of the flour is replaced by semolina. I gives a very white bread with a soft and tender heart and a very thin and crusty shell. I shaped it as a regular bread but I assume it can be shaped differently too. Extremely delicious for breakfast with jam. 

Brioches

With the temperature increasing slightly it’s becoming much easier for me to make breads. Normal people living in normal houses don’t have this kind of problem of course, but if your house is a Japanese traditional old house made roughthly of paper, that matters! Now I can knead and I know the result is gonna be nice, so it was high time for a brioche. Usually I cook them in a rectangular pie dish, but this time I wanted them round and golden all over, so I made them smaller and round.

kneading brioche requires a bit more time than bread and your hands get really nasty, but it’s too delicious!!! So for 6 of these beauties, you need, 250g of hard white flour; 40g of brown caster sugar; 6g of salt; 10g of sourdough; 7g of yeast;  3eggs; 120g of butter at room temperature; vanilla. Mix all the dry ingredients, add the eggs and finish with the butter. Knead until smooth and soft. It can take more than 30min. Then keep in a warm place until it has taken a bit of volume (it does not double or whatsoever). Then keep refrigirated for about an hour. On cooking paper, cut in 6, and shape the brioches the way you want; wait an extra 2h; you can then use an egg yolk for a golden finish, and bake at 170 for 25min.

Little breads for breakfast

There is nothing as such as a good breakfast, prepared just in time and served just when it’s done. In particular, I can’t help but love bread that is just out from the oven, with a good cup of a hot drink and a fresh fruit (from the garden any time it’s possible). It makes the perfect start. Of course baking requires a bit of organization and time but in the end it’s not so difficult and incomparable with anything else you can buy the day before!

As you may have noticed I bske pretty much anything. Even if I am not master in making croissants yet and naad to work on that, I start to be pretty confident on making rye and whole wheat breads. So here is an other variation of the basic recipe, where I mixed 250g of flour: half rye and half whole wheat flours, 120g of water, 14g of sourdough, 3g of yeast, 6g of salt, knead until soft and smooth, then added dry raisins and chocolate chips in part of the dough only. Waited until it has almost doubled, then shaped it and leave all night in a cool place. Before going to bed I scedule a delayed start of the oven so that In the morning I just have to bake them for 10-12min and breakfast is ready!!! Have a nice weekend!

First bread of the year

When we left Japan in December it was still the end of autumn, in our garden the Japanese mapple trees were all red, the gingko had just lost all its leaves, the camelias were starting to bloom. 15 days later, the mapple leaves have all fallen, at first sight only the camelias haven’t changed, but with a closer look, the daffodils are blooming, the magnolias  and the plum trees are full of buds already big, and the garden is metamorphosing slowly towards spring. From now on it’s going to be the coldest days, but the garden needs a lot of attention to get ready for spring: tree treaming, weed removing, cutting, grooming, planting… So we spend a lot of time outside in the cold, and there’s nothing better to start such days with a warm energizing rustic bread for breakfast. My recipe is simple: 50g of rye flour, 200g of white flour, 170g of water, 14g of sordough, 4g of natural dry yeast, 6g of salt. 20min cooking at 230deg, plus 5min in the oven cooling down. Perfect with jam, honey, butter or whatever pleases you!!!

Baking bread again!

I’ve the impression that I haven’t baked bread too often recently, and I was happy to kneal again this weekend. Because I wanted both a bread for breakfast and to accompany our lunch I decided to prepare a half-half rye-white flour. I ise now a pretty simple and standard procedure for my bread: 250g of flour (whatever you like or mix), 14g of dry sourdough, 3g of natural yeast, 6g of salt, 150g of water. Though my bread don’t have giant bubbles forming, probably of a too low temperature, I love them for the delicious taste, the crunchy and soft combination, and the smell in the house!

Sesame fougasse

Oil base breads are probably what I am best at and what I enjoy the most to knead. After I’ve through the classis foccacia, fougasses etc, I wanted to invent my own recipes. My first one is a sesame fougasse.  I used 250g of flour, 120g of water, 14g of sordough, 3g of dry natural yeast, 50g of sesame (grilled and soaked in water), 5g of salt, 10g of sesame oil, 10g of olive oil. I proceed exctly as for regular fougasse. And once baked I applied sesame oil instead of olive oil. Delicious with pretty much anything, sesame suits well cheese like brie, and salads.

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