Category: Vegetarian

Omurice – オムライス

I am lucky to work with one of my students on the development of a system that proposes variations to things someone do depending on preferences… for developing such a system we decided to chose a concrete example, and the first idea that came to our mind was a system that could help you in making new recipes by trying adding popular ingredients. And to do a first real life experiment we needed something easy enough to prepare and with many possible variations. We picked omurice. The whole time we were meeting and discussing it reminded me how much I live omurice, and how little I cook it.

I also remembered that a long long time ago I promised to post the recipe of this popular wa-yo 和洋 recipe. But for some reason it seems I never did… so let’s fix this right now!!!

First of all let’s talk wa-yo food a bit. While Japan opened to the west for many things in the 19th century, it had continually had this very specific way of not copying but adapting to its own taste or resources the cultural elements of another civilization, such that in the end it creates a genuine Japanese part of culture. Food has many examples: curry-rice, castella, dorayaki, and omurice. It seems to be born in a cafe in Ginza in the early 20th century.

The first time I heard about omurice was when reading one of Murakami Ryu‘s novel: “coin lockers babies”. The translation and the way it was presented was that of a rice omelette. In my mind I imagined a batter of eggs with cooked rice in it, cooked in a frypan. How far from the truth I was!!! Omurice is a simple preparation for sure but with many variations. Each place that serves om-rice has its own recipe. It consists in three parts: the rice, the omelette and the sauce.

The rice: usually plain white rice, but can be also sautéed with green peas (my favorite) and small bit of pork… tomato sauce or tomato ketchup can also be added to the rice to give it a nice pink color. Mushrooms, chicken are also other options.

The omelette: it can be a rather straightforward omelette, or a more runny one, or something like very runny scrambled eggs. Usually plain. It is nice to have it a bit runny in any case as it mixes well with the rice.

The sauce: that’s where most of the creativity is, and often too much for me. One popular sauce in fancy om-rice recipe is the demiglass sauce デミグラスソース, made from red wine, beef consommé etc… but my ultimate favorite is just a splash of tomato ketchup. The simplest the better.

This time, I made omurice with brown rice and that was super delicious. A runny omelette on one side with 2eggs, a splash of tomato ketchup, and a side of blanched komatsuna.

Quenelles…

That’s something I haven’t cooked for 4 years!!! Can you believe that??? The last time I made some was for that post back in 2016!!! And then… nothing… strange enough because (1) I like quenelle very much, (2) it’s not difficult to make, (3) it requires only simple ingredients I always have in the pantry… So with the weather getting chillier it was a good time for turning the oven on more than usual.

I used the recipe from my previous post and slightly adjusted it, it is for regular quenelles, they don’t become very fluffy… I still don’t know how to make them fluffier, I need to work on it. But even not fluffy it tastes great. This time also I used fresh cream, but I realized once again (I rarely use cream so I have a tendency to forget) that Japanese fresh cream sold in supermarkets is not very good for oven cooking, it dries out and only the fat remains, which looks buttery and not creamy anymore… Milk to cook the quenelles first and adding the cream later is probably a better solution…

Still here is the recipe adjusted.

Quenelles (2-3 servings)

For the quenelles

  • 150 flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 50g of butter
  • a pinch of salt and nutmeg

For the sauce

  • 6 large shiitake or the equivalent of other simple mushrooms
  • 4tsp of fresh cream (if you like it) or olive oil can work…
  • 1 cup of milk
  • salt and pepper

In a pan the butter. Heat until the butter has melted. Add the flour, and cook at low heat for 8min. If you have a hard time mixing in all the flour add a few drops of water.

The final dough after cooking and smoothing

Cool down a bit and add the eggs, the salt, the nutmeg, and stir well. You should obtain a smooth dought that doesn’t stick. If it sticks add a little more flour, if too dry add a bit of water. Cut the dough in 8 pieces and form the quenelles as shown in the picture below. Boil a large amount of water and poach the quenelles until they float.

Set in an oven dish, add the milk. Wash and slice the mushrooms, add to the whole. If you use fresh cream (not Japanese) add it now. Add salt and generously add pepper. Pre heat the oven at 200 degrees. And bake for 30min. At 20min add the cream (if you use Japanese cream). They get golden brownish on the top when ready. Serve and eat immediately.

Buckwheat gnoccheti and sweet palermo

Discovering again and again new vegetables… this one seems to be a new breed of sweet pepper… not that I am a fan of new breeds… there are so many existing that I am not sure to see the point… in the meantime that’s how many vegetables and fruits have been created… anyway I didn’t know when I bought it, it looked nice and was a good change, as with the end of the summer it’s all about eggplants, cucumbers, okras and tomatoes… and I don’t want to start too quickly with the fall vegetables, there will enough time for that… and it’s still hot, so I don’t feel like kabocha and sweet potatoes yet!!!

The name of this new vegetable is “palermo”… it reminded me Sicily, so I put it in my basket. Yellow, long and firm… just like a bell pepper. I was hoping it wouldn’t be strong and spicy, all the contrary. The taste is very mild and rather sweet. But the flesh is thinner than that of the regular red, orange or yellow bell peppers, so it feels not very nourishing. I prepared it with a fresh tomato sauce, to serve with gnochetti.

Gnochetti that I made with buckwheat. Indeed, the meal I had in mind was very different… I was planning to prepare soba with some green vegetables, when I realized that all the soba were gone and I only had buckwheat flour in the pantry… I didn’t feel like trying to do handmade soba at the very moment, instead I opted for something I knew I could succeed in easily… 😉 gnochetti felt perfect, but then I needed to change the vegetables and thought about the palermo. All set and here are my recipes.

Buckwheat gnochetti

  • 50g of buckwheat flour
  • 25g of whole-wheat flour
  • 25g of flour
  • 1 egg
  • A bit of water

Mix all the flours together, add the egg and knead. Only if the dough is really hard or if all the flour is not well incorporated then add a few drops of water and knead well.

Keep 30min to rest. Then make a 1.5-2cm diameter roll and cut chips of 1-2mm thick (see top picture). Make balls with the chips and roll on a gnocchi board.

In a large pan filled with water boil the gnochetti and remove them when afloat. Put the gnochetti in the pan of the sauce (see below)

Tomatoes and palermo sweet pepper sauce

  • 2 tomatoes
  • 1 palermo bell pepper
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper

In a large frypan, splash some olive oil. Wash and cut the tomatoes and add to the pan. Start cooking at medium heat. Wash, remove the seeds and slice the palermo, add to the tomatoes. Cook at low heat until there is only a thin layer of liquid remaining. Stop cooking.

Add the boiled gnochetti to the sauce pan, add salt and pepper, a splash of olive oil and stir well at medium heat. Serve and enjoy!!!

Blueberry tarts

Well, well, well… the rainy season doesn’t seem to clearly end this year again, turning the garden into a jungle, with the heat and a few hours of sun somehow everyday and the season for summer fruits has truly started. Be it melons, peaches or blueberries, the freshness and sweetness of all is a joy every morning for breakfast, eaten simply raw.

It is also the time of the year we spend most of our free time at the beach swimming, bodyboarding and surfing, and we need a solid five o’clock tea with something to eat. When it’s hot I don’t feel like standing in front of my cooking range flipping crepes, I prefer a ready to eat summer fruits in tart, clafoutis, cobbler or crumble. Blueberries are a good ally for any of the aforementioned preparations. But my favorite of all is a simple tart with a sablé pie crust, topped with fresh ripe delicious fruits. I love when it bake to see the dark fruit juice turn into syrup and make a thick layer. I like simplicity.

But after I prepared this simple blueberry tart the other day, A. argued that the tart with custard is better. I assume he wanted to tease me just to be sure to have another blueberry tart soon enough… and it worked well for him!!! The week after I was preparing a custard cream version of it.

I love custard too, but to be honest I find that baked blueberries in their juice are much nicer than raw ones… So while I loved both I still have a preference for the simpler version. What is your favorite???

Blueberry tarts

Simple version

  • 150g of flour
  • 30g of sugar
  • 50g of butter
  • Water
  • Blueberries

In a bowl combine the ingredients but the blueberries. Make a dough and roll it to the size of your pie dish.

Cover with the fruits washed and patted dry. Bake in the oven at 190deg until crust is golden and fruit juice is thick.

Custard version

  • Same as above
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 cup of milk
  • 1tbs of flour
  • 1tbs of sugar
  • Vanilla (2cm of a pod)

Make the dough as above, roll it and set in the pie dish. Put an oven proof weight on it, and bake until golden at 190deg.

In the meantime make the custard: in a bowl mix the sugar, the egg yolk, the flour, heat the milk, add and stir well, and cook while stirring until creamy (I like my custard very creamy not hard… but adjust the quantity of milk depending on your liking. For that boil a smaller quantity of milk first and while stirring and cooking add a bit of milk once in a while until you obtain the desired thickness. Remember it will thicken further when cooling down)

Spread the custard on the crust, add the washed and patted dry blueberries, that’s it!!!

Gnochetti

When I make pasta for ravioli I always end up with a significant amount of pasta that has been floured and roll and is unsuitable for making ravioli again. It has become to dry. Usually I would just keep it that way, cut in squares and boil it or fry it as a little bonus or for finger food with a drink. But recently I have been really attracted to making shorter pasta like troffie, orecchiette, gnochetti… and seeing video of Scusatema on IG really inspired me to make the step and test… the ravioli rolled pasta is a lot drier and hard than the original pasta and I thought it would be perfect for the test. I have little cooking equipment, and thought my little gnocchi board would be good for that.

So I assembled all the remaining pasta in a ball, rolled it in a long stick.

Cut the stick in small pieces, and started rolling them on the board. That went just perfectly. No meed for additional flour, no sticky parts and beautifully shaped gnochetti came out one after the other. Bonus it is super relaxing to do this little gesture to roll the pasta on the board and see them pilling in front of me.

Since I made only a small amount instead of boiling them I cooked them in a little pan with olive oil and a bit of water, and waited for the water to go before lightly frying them, and served them as a little snack.

For sure I will make short pasta again soon! That was so nice!!

Eggs are my best friends…

I’m a big fan of cooked eggs and always have been. I recall the soft boiled eggs with bread and butter of my childhood, the omelettes, with cheese, potatoes or wild asparagus or wild mushrooms… going to the chicken farm near my grand parents home to get fresh eggs… this love for eggs hasn’t changed a bit over time, now I still love eggs. Poached, sunny side, scrambled… every mean is great. But recently I rediscovered home made hard boiled eggs. In Japan they can easily be bought in convenience store and I’ve been eating one, once in a while, as an afternoon snack for a long day, but I rarely if not never boiled my eggs… I don’t know why… hard boiled eggs are super convenient: they keep easily, transport easily and are delicious… but the recipes now I love the most with hard boiled eggs is in a dressing for vegetables or pasta.

Chopped thinly, mixed with olive oil and mustard this a must to dress a potato salad for example. Or like in today’s recipe, with basil and olive oil, to dress some pasta and green beans. The variations are infinite as eggs accommodate well with so many things: parsley, basil, olive oil, mustard, mayonnaise, curry…

Count one egg for 2 servings, and have a good week!!!

Loquat – 枇杷

Among the many trees in our garden we have in the very back of it a loquat tree. Loquats-枇杷-biwa are quite common in Japan and have been there around for long enough such that a music instrument bears the same name but writes differently 琵琶.

The location of the tree in our garden was very unfortunate, it is near where we have a space designed to burn garden green trash, and it was in the shadows of the edge trees of our neighbors. While we have stopped burning garden trash and now compost them or dispose them, our neighbors also cut the edge trees last year, and our garden is now benefiting for a lot more sun light than it used to. This two factors combined, our loquat tree has produced numerous large sweet fruits this year, which compared from the tiny sour fruits it used to produce was a big surprise. I used to give the fruits to birds, now I decided to harvest quite a few.

Loquat are good eaten raw in fruit salad, with yogurt or fromage blanc. They are just a bit tedious to prepare. The peal comes of easily, so do the seeds, but there is this harder part between the flesh and the seeds that I don’t like and prefer to remove. So when it comes to preparing loquats, I like to prepare several at the same time. Having my hands all covered in juice… unfortunately they oxyde very quickly so you can’t prepare them to long ahead before eating. Not that it alters the taste, but the bright orange color turns quickly in a brownish, not very appealing.

My all time favorite for eating biwa is definitely in a tart. Like you would do for apricots, with a sable pie crust and an almond powder and egg base. Not too sweet, as the fruit is very mild in taste, you don’t want to overwhelm it with sweetness. I used also no sugar in the pie crust. Just butter and flour, and a bit of water.

And since I had a few cherries left from the clafoutis I made, I added a few. Very good balance in flavor, juiciness, sweetness and sourness. After baking until golden, eat rapidly as the loquat oxydation continues even cooked…

Now is the season of loquat in most north hemisphere countries, so enjoy them as you can and have a good week!

Inspiration from mom’s recipe

I call my parents at total random times, depending on my schedule, but because of the time difference it often falls before their lunch time/our dinner time. Often it is when I am on the move. Walking between appointments, walking back home. But it also happen when I’m in the kitchen kneading bread or washing vegetables to prepare dinner… the latter often drives the conversation towards food. We share our new favorite recipes, what is in season here and there (more than often the same things except for those that are specific to each country…)

Last Sunday was mother day in France so I happened to call when I was thinking of preparing dinner, and my mother told me about her new favorite pasta recipe. Something very Sicilian to me, and with all ingredients I had in the fridge or in the garden… well all but the one that was key to her, which for me was optional: the sardines!!! I don’t mind skipping the proteins if the rest of the recipe seems worth. And it was… so here is my recipe largely inspired by the conversation with my mother. I didn’t know how it is called so I called it:

Pasta mom’s way

  • 100g of flour
  • 1 egg (for the pasta)
  • water (for the pasta)
  • 1 fennel fresh
  • 4 little red onions as those on the picture above, can be one large…
  • 1 handful of pine nuts
  • 1 handful of raisins
  • olive oil
  • 2 branches of parsley

Prepare the dough for the pasta by mixing the ingredients. Leave to rest for the time to prepare the sauce.

Peel the onion and wash the fennel. Chop the size you like. Toss in a pan grease with olive oil and cook at low heat until soft.

Crush roughly the pine nuts. Add to the pan. Add the raisin. Cook at low heat and stir sometimes. Chop the parsley, and add. In the meantime roll your pasta. I made tagliatelle but you can make what you like. Boil them. Drain and add to the sauce stir and add salt pepper and a bit more olive oil. Stir and serve to eat right away!

That’s it! Thanks mom for the tip!

Fava beans

Now is the season and it’s always a feast for me!!! Well… it wasn’t always like that, it took me time to enjoy fava beans but now I love them and I was thinking of doing a fava beans week like I did in the past for many of my favorite ingredients: 5-7 days, 5-7 recipes, but by the time I got to actually seat and write a post I realize I published so many pictures of recipes with fava beans on IG that in the end it wasn’t making sense anymore. So once again the fava bean week has been postponed… I decided to go with a summary of my favorite recipes, may in one or two posts.

One thing that took me some time to understand was how delicious fava beans or sora-mame in Japanese そら豆 are when simply blanched and pealed. I use to eat them whole (don’t get me wrong not whole whole right! Just the beans inside the pod!!!)… but after preparing some Shojin cuisine recipes some years ago, I understood the difference between pealed and not pealed fava beans, and I would never not peal anymore.

One of my favorite fava beans combination is with tomatoes. For some reason Isumi produces beautiful and delicious tomatoes. Very large and ripe ones, I love to cook them slowly with olive oil and reduced into a thick tomato sauce. They are sweet and tasty. Add a new onion to the preparation, soften by the long and slow cooking at low heat, and this is perfection!! If you have made tomato sauce last summer, my preparation is probably close to that, even thicker, so if you still cannot find proper tomatoes just use tomato sauce. I just then add blanched and pealed fava beans and use it for accommodating Japanese rice white and brown, or pasta, long and short or just a slice of made bread.

Tomato and fava beans topping brown rice

One other recipe is to use the fava beans as a base for pasta sauce. Instead of just blanching the fava beans I cook them a little longer so that they become creamy when pealed. Then mash them with olive oil, salt and pepper and add to pasta. Here I added a bit of smoked snapper.

Fava beans pasta sauce with smoked snapper

Finally, one of my favorite way of eating quinoa is to start as a soup, but let the liquid evaporate almost entirely and add plenty of vegetables from the start. I usually do this recipe in winter but spring is also good with all the spring vegetables, here a large tomato for the sweetness, a new carrot, and pealed fava beans and green peas. That’s it!

Have a good day!!!

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