Category: Japan

The garden doesn’t wait…

I know it, but sometimes nature reminds it violently to me… whether it’s a roof tile broken during a typhoon by a branch we neglected to cut, an overflow of the gutter because it was filled with fallen leaves… I learn my lessons. I also now monitor more closely the plants and trees, can predict and treat ahead of pests to avoid damages, so I’ve been busy… but when I discovered my potatoes were sick I was very disappointed. Last year they grew so easily… so last weekend I took action by making horsetail decoction to treat them and harvesting the most endangered ones. Which ended up beautifully in our plate with plenty of new potatoes to eat!!!

But today when I discovered that two large trees I like particularly have been attacked by pests I was devastated. Seeing them weakening and loosing all their leaves… I again took action immediately… but all nursing my plants and trees I had little time to harvest plums, so tonight, right before the sun went down, I decided to start. Only to realize that I will have to downsize my production of plum syrup, because in this last week the warm weather has turned the green plums into a pinkish orange, and they now will be more appropriate for umeboshi… the garden never waits for you. If you’re in time good for you, if you’re not, too bad… you need to move on, and wait another year…

Hopefully, I still harvested a few green plums to prepare some plum syrup ume shiroppu 梅シロップ. I have something with syrup usually in summer, but not only, I always have had. I have always loved them and I remember my dad bringing me a glass of grenadine syrup, very diluted, in the morning before going to high school… I’ve never been a morning person and for more than 20 years I never had breakfast except something to drink. The plum syrup is really nice because it can be drunken cold or hot, which makes it year round drink, very enjoyable in the winter after a body boarding session or on the tennis court. Indeed, because it is very simply made, not only it tasted great, it is also full of nutrients, highly diluted it makes a good recovery drink after effort. Add to that the salty plum juice umezu 梅酢 from making umeboshi and you have the perfect energy drink sweet and salty, 100% homemade and sweet and salty to your taste! For 500ml of recovery drink I use 2tbs of plum syrup and 1tbs of umezu then add water. When it’s really hot or effort really intense I use 2tbs of each.

Cheese, cheese, cheese…

In these kind of gloomy days of grey skies and new Corona virus outbreak, even very recently with the pick of new cases in Japan that starts to impede our work activities: events I was invited to got canceled, events I have been working hard to organize are going to be canceled as well… a bit of slowness, time shared with the loved one and delicious cheese was more than welcome.

Saturday morning, after a few days separated for work, it was high time for having breakfast together again for real. So we headed to cafe No. 4 in Yonbancho for breakfast. Indeed after trying croissant at Factory the other day, and finding way too salty, we tried the avocado toasts from No. 4 and they were really delicious! The kale and fresh fruits salad that accompanied them was also great! A very good place to start the day and honestly there are not so many in Tokyo that open early enough.

Avocado toast for breakfast at No. 4

But that that’s not the point of today’s post to review early breakfast spots in Tokyo, though I should make one, one day…

The point is this little gem we found on our way to the countryside later that morning. A few kilometers before arriving home A. wanted a coffee. So we stopped at the one opened on the way: Haru. A small place I knew was making galettes and crepes, but, I don’t go out to eat crepes and galettes, that’s what I cook when we’re in a rush and starving!!! That’s why we’ve never been before… what I didn’t know is that they are also making cheese!!! What a surprise! Indeed, the owner used to work at Takahide farm, a place I really love, and he had spin of, but still uses the milk from Takahide farm. He learned one year in Auvergne, France. He makes a few different types of cheeses, different from Takahide, great! A good reason to shop at both. I bought the “souple” cheese which is a semi-hard cheese that has a very soft taste. Loved it, with some freshly baked bread, or just like this… I didn’t try the blue cheese but knowing that he studied in Auvergne I am guessing it should be nice for blue cheese lovers (which is not really my case).

Homemade bread and cheese “souple”

But the best of the best was their fromage blanc. They sell it in 350g pack which is a great size for making several servings, it reminded that in France we buy fromage blanc by 1kg!!! Haru fromage blanc is light and creamy, very mild in taste and melty in the mouth… scrumptious. And with the strawberry season starting in Chiba it’s the promise of many delicious breakfasts and desserts! And many visits at Haru! And when there you can try the Houji cha latte… really good too!!!

So you can bookmark the address as I did! I am sure there a few more remarkable cheese makers in the region, just need to find them… and by chance is surely the best!

Fromage blanc and strawberries

Top picture of the cheese is from Haru website.

Ochazuke – お茶漬け

Those who are familiar with Yasujiro Ozu’s movies must know “The flavor of green tea over rice” or “お茶漬けの味”, while being a cinematographic beauty and a brilliant socio-cultural representation of the the Japanese society transition of the time, it also introduces to a large audience ochazuke. Literally, as in the movie, it’s a dish that consists of pouring green tea over rice. A warm and comforting dish. While for westerners this might sounds odd, this dish, well prepared is actually delicious. It is also very simple if you have the right ingredients: rice, a hot tasty liquid, some topping eventually.

Ochazuke as you can imagine, is not supposed to be eaten with freshly cooked rice, while it is ok to do so, it is rather a recipe to use rice leftovers that have cooled down. So what I usually do is cook more rice than I need once to guarantee leftovers and then keep them for the next meal. Of course I mean Japanese rice cooked the Japanese way!!! You can use white rice or brown rice, it is equally delicious.

Then you need a hot liquid. As the name may be misleading, the liquid can be, but does not limit to green tea. Of course a nice and tasty green tea will work very well, yet my favorite recipe is with a flavor-rich dashi. A dashi made from konbu and katsuo, or from shiitake for a vegan version. The liquid must be hot enough to warm the rice if you use leftovers as it might be just at room temperature.

Finally you need a topping. Something that brings in a new texture and a new flavor. The topping is in rather low quantity, about one~two table spoon for one bowl. And as the rice and the liquid have quite a fine and light flavor you can use a topping that contrasts vividly such as umeboshi, salty salmon, mitsuba or create new combinations. Well, to be honest umeboshi is one of my favorite, and it can be used with some other toppings as well.

Why is that that I suddenly I talk so much of ochazuke when in the past 15 years I barely made one and only have them in restaurants? I think its just a matter of interesting circumstances: (1) Finding a nice dashi made from natural ingredients (dashi bars and tasting are becoming more trendy but not all dashi are made from simple natural ingredients) (2) Having leftover rice (when I was sick I would cook rice for 2 or 3 meals to have always something ready in case I would be hungry) (3) Wanting to eat a warm meal (with the temperature changing rapidly and the days becoming chilly one needs a warm, light and comforting meal…)

Here are the ochazuke I made in the past couple of weeks, top to bottom: umeboshi and pickled red chiso, umeboshi and mitsuba, 7 herbs and salmon, umeboshi grilled mushrooms and salmon.

For all the principle is the same: serve the rice in a large bowl such that it uses not more than half of it. Top with the topping of your choice. I blanched the round turnips in the 7 herbs version and slightly grilled in olive oil the long ones. Same for the mushrooms, I grilled them before. Prepare the dashi of your choice and pour while hot gently to cover the rice. Eat right away!

Persimmons

When the season for persimmons comes it means that autumn is clearly here and with shorter days, the chilly evenings will be coming soon. And here they are. Not cold enough to tuen the heater on yet, but it’s coming.

While we are not big fans of raw persimmons, like pretty much everyone in Chiba Sotoboso, we have persimmon trees in our garden, two that give sweet persimmons and one that gives bitter ones. Persimmons are like plums in June, impossible to give away!!! Most people don’t even harvest them and their leave-less branches are decorated with beautiful orange fruits. I our gardens the fruits don’t last long as birds happily eat them and that is great. Still I always harvest a few fruits for us as there is one recipe that is my total preferred way of eating persimmons: tofu ae with cucumber.

So here it is:

Persimmon, cucumber and tofu ae: 

– 1 persimmon not too soft

– 1 Japanese cucumber  

– 1 small block of drained tofu

– 2tbs of sesame seeds

– a bit of salt

Peel and dice the persimmon, slice the cucumber. Grind the sesame seeds, drain very well the tofu* and mix with the salt. Add the persimmon and the cucumber. Stir well and it is ready to serve.

Oh! By the way, I’m testing new mini videos to explain the recipe… checkout below and on IG!!!

* draining tofu is crucial to obtain the perfect creamy consistency. To drain tofu (hard or soft) first press it gently between two boards with a weight on top. Gravity will make it work perfectly for you after 1h. Then in a clean cloth with thin weaving press the tofu to remove the water has shown in the third video below.

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Typhoon…

Yep! The now worldwide famous typhoon 19 was passing over Tokyo last night. It rained a lot and the wind blowed hard. It’s a typhoon, something we experience a few times every year between August and November in Tokyo… They said it was more powerful than usual, but from the cosiness of our Tokyo apartment, things didn’t look so terrible, though I would lie saying I wasn’t worried about our house in the countryside (which is apparently fine!!!), but there was definitely a end-of-the-world feeling in Tokyo. All highways around and within Tokyo were closed. All train lines stopped, metros had also altered routes and schedule, and all shops, museums, theaters were closed all day or closing at noon and didn’t reopen until Sunday noon or later. We thought we would spend the day in a cinema or in a museum or both but not even… While looking at the empty streets and roads and this morning walking under a perfect blue sky in a rather empty city was quite unfamiliar. A city emptied of its restless inhabitants or visitors going here and there in an almost frantic agitation is so refreshing that it felt really good just walking around. And the morning view was just stunning…

Though I knew the typhoon was coming I didn’t forecast that all grocery stores around our place would be closed so I had to cook 5 meals with what was left in the fridge, which was very little as usually I pack fresh food in the country on Saturday and even less than usual as we are leaving tonight for the whole week on business… and what I have in the pantry in Tokyo now is very limited as I hate pest and I noticed that organic food (in particular that I bring back from Europe) is more prone to pest. So I felt that this forced time at home was a good opportunity to browse a few old cookbooks and do some old recipes with a twist: classic pancakes, grilled miso eggplants, cocoa cupcakes bites for tea, and grilled bacon lentils with radishes and radish tops… and then a bit of leftovers with poached eggs. Nothing really fancy but just right for the little activity we had while at the same time fulfilling.

Changing habits

Like pretty much every one we have our habits. Ours change with seasons and adapt to our agendas. And sometimes we pick up new ones and abandon those that don’t fit with our philosophy or ethics anymore. There has been two major changes recently, one by choice, the second forced. We used to go swimming in the ocean before breakfast on weekends, and I would do a bit of bodyboarding then, but the whole point of building a garage and workshop was to have a space for our diy activities and to buy a new car to go to the beach, one with which we could carry our boards and get in all wet and salty. Originally we thought of buying two SUP, but A. was really keen in starting surfing so we first got him a fun-board. Going surfing with an empty stomach was not an option for him. So it’s been two months now that instead of heading to the beach as soon as we woke up, we now go surfing around 11:00-12:00 for one or two hours. And sometimes we go for another session at 16:00. This has considerably changed our schedule but it’s nice, in particular now with the beautiful autumn weather (when there is no typhoon) and the very warm ocean water (no need of wetsuit!). And when there’s no wave, we just swim… This changed as meant a richer breakfast (more carbs and fruits) and also that I prepare most of the lunch before 11:00, so that when we’re back from the ocean lunch is rapidly ready.

Typical breakfast before surfing

Typical lunch after surfing

The other change in our habits was forced, we didn’t have the choice, and it has a big impact on us. It relates with the simultaneous closing in Ohara of the local supermarket that was my supplier for local fresh fish and milk, Coconut milk, butter and some other simple things like chocolate, baking powder, soya sauce, and olive oil; the Genji butcher shop that was my Isumi pork filet and smoke ham supplier; and A.’s wine shop… we have looked around in a reasonable distance but we have found nothing that could be a good replacement, the only solution we have found so far is to drive 10min-15min to Kuniyoshi and shop at the local supermarket there where they have a different selection of products but they still have local fish, local milk and pork. I don’t see the point to drive inland that far to buy fish that comes from the harbor that is 2min from our house… I could probably have been fine without the meat and the fish (though I enjoy them once in a while), but A. is not ready to give them up. This also has started to make us think more seriously about the aging problem in Japan, how a local supermarket is crucial for elderly independent living, how it is not just a grocery store but also an important feature for the conservation of social fabric. Fancy ideas came to our minds but I don’t know if we have the guts to make them true… time only will show… that’s when our Dr, Jekyll and Mr. Hyde lifestyle shows its limitations…

What I think of every single sunny day!!!

Perilla – shiso

If you like Japanese food or have traveled to Japan you that green leaf for sure!! Perilla, or shiso 紫蘇, or ooba 大葉 grows very easily and spreads like weed in both planters and the garden. It requires very little maintenance and grows every year with more and more plants, only the caterpillars seems to like it. I never planted any in our garden but it’s been growing steadily every year. It blooms in the early autumn and the flowers are really delicious. And this year I harvested plenty of flowers so it’s time to prepare them. So far I was using them always the same way: in miso and to make some kind of tempura. I call them fake tempura because they are deep fried, but I use a simple mixture of flour and cold water just like for tempura.

This year I am also trying something new: I want to make syrup. For that my plan is to use the same recipe as the lavender syrup and replace the lavender flowers by shiso flowers. I’ll update you in a few days when it’s ready!!

In the meantime have a good week!!

Pumpkin

At last… the beautiful autumn days have arrived and with them the most typical autumn vegetables (with mushrooms): the pumpkins!!!

While in Tokyo supermarkets you may find only Japanese kabocha, the one with the soft dark green skin and the vibrant orange flesh, that is also found all year round… In the countryside, in farmers markets and local cooperatives you can find many more varieties. Of course the butternut squash is now a classic, but not only. And last week one of our friend gave us a beautiful little pumpkin. It was so cute that I was sad to cut it open, but there are a few recipes I really enjoy and at some point I decided it was time to eat it.

One of my favorite Japanese style to cook kabocha of all kind is to boil them in dashi, add a bit of soya sauce… serve that with rice and I am more than happy. I shared that recipe before but just to make sure, I share it again. It is so simple.

Simmered kabocha in dashi

– a piece of kabocha/pumpkin (200-300g)

– 2 tbs of soya sauce

– a handful of katsuobushi flakes

Wash the pumpkin/kabocha. If it is a Japanese kabocha you don’t need to peel it. Otherwise peel it. Cut in bite size. In a pan put the cut kabocha, cover with water. Add the katsuobushi flakes. Bring to a boil and boil for 5min. When the kabocha is almost soft (use a bamboo toothpick), if there is a lot of water remaining drain. Otherwise just increase the heat for 20sec to make the liquid evaporate.

Add the soya sauce and roll the kabocha in by gently shaking and turning the pan. Don’t be violent or you’ll end with a purée!! Serve warm or cold.

The point in this recipe is that I don’t remove the katsuobushi flakes after using them in the dashi, on the contrary. Mixed with the soya sauce they are delicious.

Yukata

A summer classic in Japan is to wear yukata to go to a summer festival – natsu matsuri – 夏祭り. Both boys and girls can wear yukata, and besides the obi they quite comfortable to wear and it’s much easier to wear it than a “full” kimono. I was lucky enough to have learned how to wear kimono the very first year we lived in Japan and since then to practice once or twice a year. But I have less opportunities to wear yukata as we often went to matsuri after work and I didn’t have time to change.

Last year with some friends from Isumi we all decided to wear yukata and go to Brownsfield matsuri and bon odori. I guess my neighbor caught me on my way there and remember, she decided to teach me how to sew a yukata. Because I was unsure of the result I picked a simple local cotton fabric. The whole sewing took me a lot more time than I thought it would and my neighbor was probably desperate by my slowness and poor sewing skills, she who would sew 3 yukata in one night!!! But hey! I managed to have it ready for the summer and I was very excited to wear it. I choose the Ohara Hanabi Beach matsuri for that: bon odori, minyo live and of course fireworks, on the beach. A very lovely and casual evening… in my new yukata!

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I will try to make a memo of the fabrication of the yukata, but I think I need a lot more practice, so if you are interested in having a hand sewed yukata made just for you, let me know! I’ll be happy to make you one!!!

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